We had a bit of a rough week. Tuesday we had to put down our beloved 13 year old Akita ...Mako Shark Inu... Mako for short! It was a very hard decision but a very unselfish one! He was an amazing dog ....a big part of our family... Loyal, sweet, protective, just a gentle giant !He will be missed a lot!
So Wednesday Hubs didn't have work.. Which is not good his work is slowing down for the season.. And I am still not working! But anyway he came home and said "what do you think about surfing today?" you never saw a woman run up the stairs and change into a bathing suit so fast!
I needed to surf! After yesterday and it's been crazy hot where I live .. And too many things to list getting me down.
Its exactly what I needed !
We headed to Doho... A bit of a late start but that's ok!
We get out and by the way I don't have contacts ... I been wearing my glasses till I can afford to go the Eye dr. So this is the 2nd time I'm surfing pretty much blind... It's not very fun. I can't see who is in the line up ...a bunch of blurs bobbing on surf boards.. Cannot see waves till they are right on top of me.. Can't judge the swell ...im always asking hubs is that one ? I rely on him to call me into waves and block for me.. He is not very good at either .
But I did catch 3 fun rights and it was a bit crowded i thought kids wete back in school and not all yet it seemed...everyone went for the same wave... Because we had to wait so long for anything! I also had to sit inside more since everyone else had a 9'0 or bigger it was tough out there on Mo... I need a bigger thicker board for where we been surfing lately... As much as I love Mo.. It's A lot of work with these small waves!
I'm also feeling out of shape.. I again gained a bit of weight... My paddle power is lacking.. I run out of energy really early and I have problems breathing when paddling out!
It's not like I don't surf ... I think I been surfing less... and with this heat... I don't exercise much in the summer. I been trying to get back into running and eating well.. But too many distractions :-(..
I will soon get back into it!! I have too my clothes are very snug!! And I can't afford and i refuse to buy bigger clothes !
Back to surf... Since im sitting inside everyone one else around me caught the wave and was coming down the line before I could get it..that made me a bit flustered on top of being blind and working hard for a wave!
I decide to go in after about an hour..so im sitting inside waiting for anything including white wash .. A wave comes with everyone on it ..and hubs is aiming right at me... I was totally in the way of everyone.. So he crashed into me and also ruined another girls ride who was sliding down the line at me too.
I just wanted out...
Don't get me wrong the weather was great the people were nice (even though i was the kook messing everyone up) and the water was relatively clean especially for Doheny. I caught 3 so not a loss of a day at all!
I just know I need a bigger board for these days. And my mindset was not there and vision would be a good thing!
Oh and there were these painted elephants there too!! I really wanted to Check them all out and see what it was all about.. But I didn't.
Any way.. Not the best day.. But not the worst!
I'm ending this post with a pix my daughter Tabi drew of her and our Akita ... In memory of Mako!
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