So as promised I will update you regarding the last couple surf sessions ... But the last day I surfed was Thanksgiving and I have been in a bit of a fog since .. With all that has been happening .. So I'm going to try and remember ... I really can't tell you exact days but close to them...
I believe the weekend before
Thanksgiving is the best place to start although I have had a few surf sessions prior...
One hubs and I surfed Blackies and I just remember it being such a fun day!!! I knew I needed it too... I just don't remember anything other than I out surfed hubs..
;-)....That always makes it a good day!
Any ways.. I was house sitting and using my friends boards ... Custom by Todd of Art in Motion...
On Saturday I used her 9'0 pig at Bolsa.. Single fin and a shape I never used before...very big fat wide tail and also wide in middle but rails thin and light...
Waves were small and mushy hard to catch ....
I was really interested and eager to see what this board was all about..
The paddle out was so easy and the board was so floaty... I was a bit surprised because of how thin it was..
I caught 2 I believe that day... 1 I paddled twice and the board did all the work... Fricken crazy... I loved it easy to surf and fun!!
Second one ...a bit more challenging ... But not the boards fault..you really had to work for the waves..but I was oh wait I caught it.. And quickly popped up.
That's all I remember about that surf session.. Except it was with Irma "she brought her doggie Peter" and Val surfed too.. We had a great talk in the parking lot
and my daughter Tabi and I ate at Mitsuwa after... And it was cold surf session!!
Hubs surfed the pig and I surfed Susan's 8'0 single fin .. I thought it was going to be just like surfing Mo... But it was not :-(... We surfed Blackies and I just was not feeling it... I caught 3 waves and 1 wipeout .
1st wave I had the hardest time trying to pop up... My balance was off .... I was off as soon as I was on ..
2nd one ... I stood and rode but seem like a lot of work to balance...
3rd my wipe out and a lot of swallowed water... I HATE those salt water cocktails!!!
4th a boogie board style ride in to throw up the swallowed salt water!!
My favorite part of that day ... Randomly running into Jen outside..we were both"Hey!!!!"
I have to say I was so not in the right state of mind to be learning a new board..my thoughts kept straying to Lorri and how she was doing .. Especially since the night before I heard she was taking a turn for the worse :-(..
So I was done surfing for the day..I was over it...
However hubs was still out there and there were some head high sets coming in... He even went for a few!! I held my breath and said out loud... What are you doing??!?!?
He had a few wipeouts ... But kept paddling back out for more!! I was wondering if he knew how big they were..??
I was proud of him.. But yet still worried and my stomach hurt watching him . And all the boards around him flying in the air... Never a good sign .. One guy was leash less and his board almost hit hubs as he was paddling for a wave.... My daughter and I both gasped at the same time.. I was like a worried mom... Just wanting him to come in!!
After that we returned Susan's boards and went back home ..
Then we surfed Thanksgiving morning..
Hubs grabbed the wrong wetsuit so he could not go in...
It was seriously Crazy crowded!! I could not believe how many people were out there...
My friend Laura and Artie showed up.. We surfed South side of pier.. Less crowds.
I caught 2 I think.... I just know 1 was amazing a real fun easy long left!! My wave of the month honestly!!
You know when you just get that one wave... THE ONE that just makes everything better?.. Yep I needed that!
Didn't stay out long but was very happy with that session..
Had to get back and make Thanksgiving dinner for Hubs family.. Our first without Uncle Gene.. Already an emotional time... Was preparing my veggies and Turkey..
But then I got the phone call I really did not want to hear.... Lorri left us that morning...
I have to say that wave was probably a heaven sent gift from my friend ....she knew I would need it!
Following are pix of the boards and my Udon noodle lunch from Mitsuwa--- that's for my boys KK and DD ;-)