Sunday, January 8, 2012
The "SWELL"..I may be the only one not excited by it..
This Break is crowded when a Swell is not forecast..but look at it when there is??? As my friend Stephanie quoted " ZOOPORT".. yeah, I have no desire to fight those crowds. Even though it has been a while since I last surfed.
So everyone all week.. surfers, non surfers, beach dwellers and even the news has been non stop talking up this swell! But the first couple days it was not all that. I heard it was also a big close out mess at most of the local surf breaks I frequent. If not closed out and big.. then crowded. I have even heard of 2 boards being broken this week! I am sure a lot more were too. I just don't find that fun.
So I decided to avoid it all together. NOT that I would be able to get outside. This swell is definitely too big for me. I know my limits and do not have a death wish... BUT I really didn't want to mess with the crowds of people, even the ones on shore just watching...I really did not want to be part of the circus.
I have been reading and watching the news and looking at blogs and videos of the craziness all week. It has been making me anxious and nervous and jumpy. I don't know why???...considering I would never be able to be out in conditions like that. It really is not for me.. HA.. fun to watch but I wouldn't do it.
However,I am totally stoked for my friends and fellow surfers who got their stoke. I have so many friends who LIVE for this..This is their surfing.. this is what surfing is all about..THEY ditch work and school for this.
But this is not my kind of surfing. I want my nice 1-4 glass clean easy riding cruiser (grandma) waves back.
I am not disrespecting this swell or those who love this..I do think it is fun to watch, for a short time. There are definitely different types of surfers. Surfers who like different,style, size and shapes of waves. What some get stoked on others do not and vice a versa. I think I am happy that my fav days seem to be the days where some surfers would not think twice about having their board touch the water.
I am ready for "Normal" Again! What I am comfortable and use to =)..
..besides I need to get in the water soon.. or I'm gonna dry out..and NO one around me likes it when that happens.. HA!