R E L I E F!!!!

Ok Ok.. you ALL know I was debating on what to do Sunday/Monday..Well Sunday. I decided to rest one more day..and keep my routine of moist heat/ice/ibuprofen/aleve/light stretching and massage. The pain was eased in no time. It was starting to feel dull pain sort of like someone just punched me in the back..and the pulling sensation moved from my neck to my arm. BUT during one of my stretching sessions,I felt something shift in my neck..and a bit of relief... so I am sure whatever I did..helped.

Also I realized the pain which was a lot less, only really bothered me now, rotating my arms backwards(gotta go forward to surf ;-)..) or while I stretched across my body. Looking over my left shoulder still hurt a bit too.BUT IT WAS ALL A MANAGEABLE kind of pain.

So Monday. I put the boards(total of 3) in the Tahoe. Took 2 teenagers(my daughter wanted to teach her new "BF" how to surf)(Not sure if he wanted to impress her or me,gotta get through and impress overprotected Momma first) to my local spot and made a day out of the beach. Since we are currently on a beyond tight budget. We made left over Easter eggs into egg salad and made sandwiches at the beach..and after our surf sesh, we headed to HB and found free parking to finish off our day.(could not afford all day beach parking)IT ended up being a very relaxing and great DAY!

So first things first Get to Newport. Pull up and FLAT.. so I thought. Good for Daughter and beginner BF.. not so good for me and Mo.. hmmm

Stood around and watched. WELL.. a little motion in the ocean a few knee to even waist high few and far between..but something. Next to the Jetty looked good, but everyone was there. I think I saw a few kids that get photographed in the "OH SEA" blog pull up next to me. They were making me laugh with their bromance, and their surf talk! I wish I could have video'd it.. so cute,and very surf stereotypical.I mean it in a good way!

We suited up and my friend Irma met me there. I saw Donna, and Dave and Ray or Rey?..who I just met last week. Also I FINALLY got to know Sue's name I talk to her all the time..but never knew who she was. Love her.. she is a gem!

Everyone went out and were at various ends of the break. BUT we all said it was fun in the end.

I let my daughter teach her boyfriend in the white wash what to do after a land lesson...then I headed out with Irma.

I didn't wear booties, sun was shining and my hubs told me the water warmed up.."LIAR!!!!".. I stepped in, just cringed, and about 10 seconds my feet were numb. Oh well.. Thank goodness for the nice sunny day. THE water was so clear and clean too!

I surfed Mo, but the sets were so small and it was hard to catch waves with Mo. LOTS of paddling. I did catch a few..I am really becoming one with Mo. We are falling IN LOVE with each other. I just realized yeaterday!

I did get a few rides. I decided to try Tallulah a few times too. Since my daughter rode her. I think Tallulah is gonna officially be hers now...sigh.. the hand down begins..any way. I thought these conditions would be better on a bigger board. YES no probs catching waves. BUT I forgot about Tallulah's flat nose, So I pearl. REALLY!!?? I catch another wave and paddle out again..I think Mo is a much easy paddler and I love his rocker and how when I do catch a wave It just glides.. so smooth. SUCH a difference.

So I go back to Mo... NOW I do want to point out. My daughter has only used foamy..but we let BF use it.. who by the way has a really good pop up and stood up a lot..shhh here is a secret.. he did and does better than the hubs...
Daughter was a bit intimidated to use Tallulah, Bigger and a "REAL" board. But she rocked it. She even said.."You were right mom, it was easier on Tallulah".. So as I said..the hand down. Sad, yet joyous at the same time.

Now back to Mo and I...I have realized I already learned a lot with him. We are much more in-tuned with each other. Still a learning experience, still my surf skills with him are a work in progress..but I am getting there. NOW I can catch waves and stand..BUT I need to remember to bend knees and try to really maneuver and use the board. WHICH I have not done with him yet. SO that is my next step. Part of the reason I am saying this is a surf instructor out there was yelling at me. "BEND YOUR KNEES!!".. Oh yeah huh? Again I was just really, still trying to feel Mo. BUT I think I am getting it. SINCE also I have been surfing in not the greatest or ideal conditions...My hope is when I do, and the time comes.. I have acquired more skill and it will be magical!

After I rode the wave in, I looked at the Beach and said to myself..OH SHIT, where did all these people come from??? So yes Shoobie season is upon us once again! But no Blackballing yet. YES!!

Any way no one wave stood out..can't say I am counting waves any more right now. Just learning Mo and was concentrating on Daughter and BF.. was hoping no injuries.. and YES none were had!

But there was one wave..I had a lil incident with a surfing Grizzly Adams looking man. Yes it was my bad.. BUT really not that big of a deal especially in the small conditions we were surfing.

I was paddling out and a wave was getting ready to crash on me,(closing out) and I turned and it took me, but Grizzly was on it and I saw him coming at me and his ride was cut short..BUT in all honesty I really don't think I cut his ride short.. IT DID CLOSE OUT and that part is what I caught and went straight. So when I paddled back out, just to make sure I said..as I smiled..(really who can resist my smile?) oh hope I didn't mess up your ride there..He said you were inside and yes a little bit. I said ooops sorry it closed out on me and I didn't know what to do, so I rode it. He said you could have turtled..I just laughed and said jokingly, I don't like to turtle it scares me. He was a bit gruff and said..no big deal..but I think he really was a bit peeved. YIKES.. I moved away from him then..I didn't want to make any more "waves".

Well I surfed THREE HOURS.. yes 3 hours. I didn't feel pain in my shoulder till later,(I think the cold water helped)a little sore today..nothing ibuprofen can't fix.

Got cleaned up and packed and chit chatted with Dave,Ray/Rey and Sue.. LOVE the after and or before surf camaraderie. Decided all in all not a bad day for the conditions.

After that, we trotted down to HB, and I played Shoobie for the rest of the day( as seen in bottom and only photo of the day)BLENDED in quite nicely with the "Spring Break" crowd!

Stress

It just figures!!! I was so looking forward to getting in the water Early Sunday Morning and Monday.. BUT yesterday(Friday)I woke up and I could not move!

I told hubs, I cant move!!! He said push the dogs away.. BECAUSE usually that is why I cannot move when I wake up.. all the animals for some reason lay right on top of or next to me. It is like I am their Queen or something. They wont let anyone near me either..so funny! I usually wake up and note I get like 12"(if I am lucky) out of the 72" of the California King size bed!

But this time it was not the animals. It was my arm and shoulder blade. I was in such pain!!!

Funny I have been a ball of stress..and I obviously have been filled with tension. I have been trying to stay positive and up beat and ignoring a few negatives in my life right now. They are just little road blocks that will get fixed! BUT no matter how I try..My body wont have it.. and just wants to remind me!

So What is my BIG Stress reducer? SURFING!! So now because of this pinched nerve in my left shoulder blade..what is it preventing me from doing?... SURFING!..BOOO!!!

So now what? I have been doing the Aleve, Ibuprofin thing. I have done the moist heat and then ice thing. I had my massage therapist "Healer" son work on it for a brief moment, I did the light stretching. I have lathered myself in Icy Hot.. IT feels a lot better today..but now the pulling sensation is on my arm, and not as much in my neck. My shoulder blade feels like someone punched me in the back and is very sensitive to touch.

I keep thinking I will just try to surf a little on maybe Monday??..I want to sooo bad..BUT am thinking.. maybe I should just sit out for a bit... IF I don't I will prob make it worse.

THIS SUCKS!

Sorry had to vent.. Was hoping this will help relieve some of my stress as well! HA!..PLUS I know a lot of you have been here..and can relate.. So I am not alone!

Posieden had a role in this... I am sure

THIS PICTURE WAS TAKEN (by the hubs) LAST WEEK AT BLACKIES!!..I DID NOT GET ANY PIX YESTERDAY!

SO I was not so sure about surfing yesterday. I was trying to find someone to surf with but no one responded except Irma.. she would be able to surf after NOON. It was SUPPOSE to be a nice sunny day at the beach..I heard good surf 3-4'. (Well none of that was true.) I thought as I was dilly dallying at home deciding if I wanted waste the gas to drive out, thought the sun would shine and motivate me to do SOMETHING.. I really am in a bit of an odd place A few things going on. I was not even sure if I felt like surfing. But probably the best thing I could do...

ANY way decided to just throw the board in the Tahoe.. did a post on FB said "Headed to Beach with surfboard in tow, if anyone wants to join me, let me know.".. DIDN'T even realize it rhymed till much later that day. HA!

I get to the beach.. Blackies, I see Eric, and Saw My hubs friend Jesse, and Saw Donna.. she just got out and said she had fun. Where Eric headed out to surf just seem too big and crowded for me. I heard another Surfer from my club Theresa was out there... closer to the pier where it looked not as bad. Still looked big..But I suited up and went out . I fought my hardest to get outside. TOOK me a while . I finally did and went towards the only long blond hair girl..thinking it was Theresa and it was not.. I have NO idea where she was???.. She must've got out before I got there. I went after one wave, a guy cheered me on..I thought I had it..but NOPE.. He thought I had it too. It was BIG as I was lifting up I looked down at him paddling back in to my right, I was aiming left and it just dumped in front of me. I am glad I did not get it. Then right after, I got a fun ride and thought I jumped off in time to not get caught inside. I just didn't want that battle again.. BUT I guess I jumped off right at the impact zone. UGGGH.. OH well. I tried to get outside again. THOUGHT screw this. I don't even know where my friend is. The sea seemed a bit much and I didn't want to be out there without knowing someone. Especially in these conditions. SO I waited for Irma. I stayed in my wet wetsuit freezing and waiting over an hour for her. Then her smiley face popped up next to Eric and I at the wall. I was happy to see her.

I went and put more money in my meter, Irma suited up. We headed to South Side of pier where at that time only one younger hotty surfer was surfing close to the pier. (Yes I checked him out, he looked like he belonged in a surf magazine, blond wavy shoulder length hair, zinc oxide on this nose, catching bigger outside waves.)

It again was hard to get outside. I did it..as I was going over the waves to get outside I look to my right and these beautiful curling waves I can see through them as I paddle as hard as I could over the not yet breaking shoulder. THEY were so Beautiful BUT BIG. I was a bit mesmerized by them, they were curling like a ribbon and closing out towards ME..I thought to myself NO time to enjoy this paddle hard to get over it. I swear I did that a few times and thought Holey Shit I made it.!! Hotty was right next to me, I paddle a little to the right to give him his space and the bigger sets.. LOL.. I looked back for Irma and she was caught inside. I NEVER make it out before her... She got slammed in her left ear and said it was not fun. BUT she also lingered a bit and caught a few inside. I was sore and I was worked and worked from earlier and my left arm was a bit sore. (I have been also strength training to help build up my paddle muscles... and think I over did it a bit with my left arm.) BUT obviously It's working I got my butt outside.
I decided to sit out there rest and enjoy it. I was watching the guy next to me catch these big waves some were over his head,..I was far enough away where they didn't affect me. BUT I had to paddle very far outside the outside waves were at least 5+ feet I am not kidding. I was whoa I cannot take these. I also was wondering what the Hell am I doing out here?? LOL.

I don't remember what order the rest happen..BUT it was all pretty neat. I did get 1 other real ride. ALL I remember is it was FAST!.. I also caught some waves where I could not stand up on. Because of how fase they were and closed out on me. I also caught and stood up on ONE wave that chewed me up and SPIT me out. I went flying, seriously flying!!! I popped my head out of the water first thing I see was Irma's EYES wide as saucers and I said I got Pitched. SHE said "YEAH you did.. That was a BIG wave But you looked good doing it".. Like a professional wipe out... LOL..

Irma joined me outside. Then, She caught a big one as I caught a wave that went so fast by the time I tried to stand up it was over. She asked If I saw her.. I said no, we were both headed back outside. She said that was a big wave it caught her..but she was shocked by it all... and was grateful to stay on it. I REALLY wish I saw it..but I was having my own issues. LOL.. Then she got back outside. I was again caught inside. I had to ditch my board behind me and dive into the huge crashing wave. I had to do that 3 times in a row. I had no other choice ..they just came so big and fast.

I got back outside and then it was like the ocean stopped. Irma and I just sat there.

These 3 other guys joined us along with the Hotty who was still there... They sat a bit more inside. They seem like they were having fun. Then I heard one guy yell and I looked and between us and the shore.. but very close to us all.. Was a HUGE fin submerging under the water....I looked at Irma and said that was a dolphin right. SHE said yes A BIG one!! Then 2 other big ones were aiming right at me. I was Irma they are coming right at me. I was hoping they would not knock me off my board. I saw them go under.. LET me tell you it is quite a sight watching 2 BIG GREY SILHOUETTES go under your board... Even though I knew they were Dolphins I was still very intimidated. AND not just any Dolphins. BIG ones.. not like the cute little ones lighter grey almost silver ones that come up to you..These look like they are the Dolphins in Charge. BIG Dark Grey almost black ones.. It really was a bit eerie.. BUT YET SUPER COOL. The guys asked where are they.. I said they just went under me they will be popping up right about there.. and as I pointed they appeared. One guy said he had never been so close to Dolphins before. I said yeah, try having them under your board!! ??? They all swam a little further out side of us and looked like they were eating. They swam right there in a sort of circle. It was that moment I realize how deep the water really was.

After that I went inside to try and catch something.. BUT the ocean got real funky all of a sudden. Like Posieden pounded his trident on the ocean floor and the seas became stormy. It looked like meringuey white tops in every direction. NO real waves to catch and it was just odd.

I was tired and decided to go in. Irma was coming in..then she kind of walked waist deep in the water toward the pier. Looking at the ocean. I could not figure out what she was looking at. She later told me she was looking for a channel to get back out. I made a comment about how weird the ocean got all of a sudden It was so strange. I said I wonder if we had an earthquake or something. It was dead for a few..then got all stormy white cappy and very funky. She said it was strange too.

I went to take a picture of the South Side of the pier.BUT my blackberry died right then. IT figures....So NO pictures this time =(

I know I got out there at 10'sh and between the 2 surf sessions and the waiting I was done at what 1:30'sh?? I left after I got a bite to eat, at 2:20.. STILL NO SUN. I was driving home and the more inland I got the more the sun shone. FUNNY weather person said. It would burn off at the beach and linger inland .. WRONG..

Any way it was a strange day surfing. I was so tired and sore when I got home.. I still am.

AWWWW<< Sigh of pure relief!

I FINALLY GOT WET.. after over 2 weeks...I got my much Needed Salt Water Bath I have been craving.!!

Thursday.. surf was few and far between... it was foggy and overcast..and the tide was low, and water was cold. Had friends coping out the surf up and down the OC... original idea was to be in water by 9... surf conditions were not cooperating. THEN found out hubs had to fix breaks on Tahoe in the AM so I would not get out till closer to 11...I was getting discouraged and very very antsy!

IT ALL WORKED OUT!. Surf got better, NO wind..fog burned off.. a bit overcast but the sun peaked through. Water still cold, not as bad as I was told.

Met up with Irma, Laura, Susan and Kelly. Jen just got out (trooper!! She surfed in the previous listed conditions) South Side OF HB pier.. only place with sign of life on the OC coast.

Kelly looked at us all like we were crazy to go in that cold water for these conditions, She Opted out. BUT the rest of us did. Jen offered up her gloves for use and I snagged them.

Water ended up not being as cold as originally thought. SO that made me happy.. or it could have been those warm gloves. WHAT a bitch to get on and off. THANK GOD FOR IRMA. I would not have been able to do that myself.

So this is what the 3rd time I have surfed HB pier?? I use to be so intimidated by it. BUT I LOVE HB! Although every-time I surf there the conditions are never the same.

I say 2-3' this time and FAST!.. I have never been on waves so fast before. Shape was better than the last couple times I surfed..but not great. I personally like slower waves I can take my time getting up and just cruise. My "Surfing Grandma Waves" the slow mellow rollers.

SO I had a total of 7 waves. 3 of which I did not get all the way up on. 2 things here.. learning Mo and how and where to pop up and he just catches waves differently. I am still getting use to that. Honestly when the wave finally catches it is a smoother motion when dropping down, like a floating sensation. It always takes me by surprise. The other thing. THE WAVES were so FAST. not enough time to maneuver my pop up and get settled.

I had one lil wipeout... the waved closed on top of me while popping up. BOOOO!

Then I got me 3 nice rides. Still can't believe how fast they were. Like an F-ing Roller coaster. I was seriously surprised I stayed on my board. HA!. THE first ride was an amazing rather nice long ride from outside. I shared a wave with Susan. We both kinda went straight. RODE IT ALL THE WAY TO SHORE. I was just happy I was up on MO.. figuring out where my feet should go.

Susan and I jumped off the same time. We both had the BIGGEST SMILES! Came up to each other and High fived. We were both SO stoked and ready to head out again!!

Had another wave it was a bit wobbly ride in.. then I caught one inside Super fast and short. BUT I was up and rode in. SO YAY ME!

I didn't think we would be out as long as we were. I think we almost made it 2 hours?? I was getting tired and my arms were getting sore. IT Takes a lot more paddling to catch a wave on MO, than Tallulah..BUT It's worth it and I am HAPPY!

I just wanted to get wet. OUR die hard friend Laura was out before us. WHICH is not normal. She caught lots of waves in the short time so she was happy.

Walking back, I was watching the young guys with muscles carrying their potato chip short boards in and thought. WHY do the younger stronger guys get to carry the smaller lighter boards back..and us a tad bit older, not quite as muscular women have to carry such bigger heavier boards..does not seem fair!!! HMM? YOU know what that just means.. Really we are stronger. ;-).. HA!

I was considering going out again Friday.BUT I heard it was drizzly surf sucked until the afternoon..and If I was to surf it would have had to be earlier. I was just SO Happy about Thursday. I decided to save the gas stay home and dwell on my fun previous day of surf.

I think that gave me enough stoke to last me till next time.. I HOPE!!!

Spring is in the air...

....UM yeah.. I really think someone messed with Mother Nature because I am freezing my a$$ off and I was a whole hell of A LOT warmer in January.. hmmmm Something is wrong here...

ANY way I am bored, bored, bored. I have Spring Fever and am itching to do more than just sit here! I Have not surfed in a while.. Looking forward to my next day off Thursday.. Surf is "suppose" to be somewhat decent.. COLD, but decent..So I am anticipating getting wet, and nourishing myself and feeding my soul in the pacific.. no matter how cold. It will be like taking a much needed cold shower.. if you know what I mean??? I have urges that need to be dealt with and only a surfboard and salt water and a wave will do! I have read books, magazines, ALL my surf blogs and watched surf on youtube (as my younger surf boys call it..SURF PORN).... IT IS NOT CUTTING IT! I am at that point where surf is like a drug and I am in desperate need of a fix!..I know surf is not always "great" in Spring.. and I don't know why I am getting this so early..

My name is Michelle and I am a surf aholic..is there a group for that?

Ok I vented.. still don't feel better! I always get like this during spring.. hmmm!!

I wanna get my spring cleaning done, I want to plant some stuff in the garden, I want to go camping..and I want to SURF!!!

So how do you handle Spring Fever?

What makes a surfer girl sad?

Well besides the fact this pix is taken at work, when of course I would rather be in the water or near a beach for that matter and not stuck in an office behind a computer...Not complaining.. I am lucky to currently have a job!

IS that stupid stupid weather.. when the Surf forecast finally looks good!!! This is the biggest I would ever go out in. I am still comfortable with 2-3 or 3-4..BUT this is still doable. Besides it is usually not accurate anyway! HA!

OF course When there is a fun surf event plan for this Saturday..A St. Patricks day surf with friends and beer to follow. IT is suppose to be the Biggest rain of the Season on Saturday!! UGGGGGGGGHHHHH!!!!

Well at least there will still be BEER!!! oh and FRIENDS!!! ;-)



Here is too a Happy St. Patricks Day.. even if we can't surf!
... and please be smart and safe DON'T drink and drive, especially if it is raining!

That's More Like It!

Well there is 2 days of surf to report here. So I will try to keep it short. Went out on Wed. and Thurs. This week. Both days surfed Blackies. Wed... wish I stayed at home..
Nice swell.. but FAST, No lulls, and dirty as all heck, Red Tide made an appearance as noted in the following link:

http://beach.orangecounty.com/2012/03/07/surpise-swell-wednesday-with-a-touch-of-red-tide/55099/

My friend Laura could not get outside for quite some time. She is a very good surfer and she had power paddling gloves on. So that should tell you something. I kept trying and gave up. Then I went to other side of pier and tried there. Got outside 2 times and caught Nada! I was so worn and tired when done and it got WINDY! I just got some paddling time in so I guess I cant complain.

Thursday MUCH better.. still not idea conditions BUT a lot better for me. Picture posted is of Thursday.

So after much debating on what to do on Thursday. Hubs had a surprising day off work since his boat was offline. SO We finally ended up with the decision to go surfing. He ran some errands in the morning and called and said Yeah lets hit Blackies. AT first he did not want to go in the dirty water. But I did the previous day. SO what does that tell you? ( I'm the diehard surfer in the family) I threw all our stuff in the Tahoe and waited for him to come home. We did our 37 mile trek to Blackies. I love when he goes with me.. CARPOOL LANE!

We get there about 9:15. We go and look at the surf. I took the picture. Said lets go in. MUCH better than yesterday. We see a few friends before we hit the water and one is not surfing too cold.. ANOTHER just got out and he was freezing. His teeth were chattering as we spoke to him. That was not an enticing sell to get in. But I said let's just go. We walk to the South side and it had some surf as well. Hubs still likes to surf away from people till he gets a bit more comfortable. We decide to suit up. He is pulling out the wetsuits from the bags and goes. UM.. where is mine. I said right here, He said that is an O'neil, I have a bodyglove. I was OH SHIT! I grabbed our daughters wet suit without looking. BUT IN MY DEFENSE it was hanging where he always hangs his. HE was a bit upset with me.. RIGHTFULLY SO. I said you can use mine. He just gave me a look. I said ok lets go see if Rick has an extra. We could not find Rick. So we went to the place we usually rent from. CLOSED. Then we get back..He says just go in. I will watch. I feel terrible. But I started to suit up. We see Rick and ask if he has an extra wetsuit. He says no but knew a place around the corner to rent one. THEY left I got in with MO and tried to surf.
I get outside...just North of the pier. I don't catch anything. I see Brian suited up and stretching on shore, I paddle in and ask if he wants to go S of pier. He said yes. We paddle out. AWAY From each other. WE do not want any injury's like last time.

Get outside and see some dolphins. Water is still dirty and fricken COOOOOOLD.
I paddle for a few waves and catch nothing. I decide to paddle and try to catch a wave I scoot up closer to my nose while paddling hoping that helps. Catch one and pearl. I am still trying to figure Mo out. Not quite like Tallulah and really these waves were not great. Brian is just South of me trying and trying I see him catch waves, but wiped out a few times. He never even got to pop up. I finally catch a wave on MO..a right.. and It felt weird. I didn't even realize I had the wave I was saying to myself "oh It caught?!".. so I popped up and Mo dropped down, I felt like I was floating. It was a close out and it was odd I was up and felt like I was floating on the closed out white wash an still a drop and then a push and the power of the current took me right. It was odd. BUT FUN and FAST so a bit short..I jumped off before I got too far inside. SMILED at hubs. Went back out. After that I caught nothing. Took some white wash in on my knees. As I was walking on shore. I see hubs catch some white wash and finally did the best pop up I had seen him do to date. Unfortunately it was at the end of the ride and he was just at shore. BUT he got it.

We decide to go to the North side of pier. He wants to rest. I say OK.. I am watching the Ocean and see it is getting a bit smaller. I say HEY let me take the 9'6. I do paddle outside. I cannot believe how much easier it was than Mo. WOW!! GO after and caught a wave without much effort at all, another right, a nice lil corner, it was all about the rights that day. I pop up and enjoyed a long cruising ride to shore. I was whoaaa that was easy.. I paddle out again. I get outside and again catch wave & pop up. I ride in while look at my husband on shore I throw my hands up and YELL how can you NOT catch a wave on this thing? It is a Beast and does all the work for you.!! I see the BIG difference between an 8'0 and the 9'6, I notice the people who had smaller boards were not catching much of anything. THEY paddled but nothing. ALL the 9'0's and bigger were catching wave after wave.

I go in and tell hubs. I am so glad I did that. I was questioning my surfing skills and beginning to think I forgot how to surf for a minute. I realize that was not the case.. it is a new and smaller board and surf conditions were not right for MO.. and I need more experience with him. We are still getting use to each other. I guess as with ALL things it will take time. The wind was really starting to pick up now. SO I was OK we are done.

I was happy with the day. I wanted one more ride. But I was getting tired plus the windy conditions. I can't seem to go past 2 hours. Hubs said I came in at around 11:30.. Yeah there was my 2 hour mark. HOWEVER if I had the big board the whole time I would have not been so worked. BUT I gotta build up to MO!.. Mo still is a lot easier than I was expecting. I just need the right conditions and patience.

Well I have come to the conclusion I am really a surfer ! Because A year ago, I would not have went in that water, with it being that dirty and cold, or even in those conditions. BUT I did..

ALSO All I do is talk about surfing... even today I came to work and anyone who listens.. gets to hear about my surf days. As a matter of fact a young surfer here at work, just told me I was the most stoked person when it comes to surfing. I think he thinks I am crazy. If you ask me about surfing, it is like turning on a light switch and I LIGHT UP AND JUST DON'T SHUT UP!.. ..Yeah.. I'm a Surfer!