Tuesday, October 1, 2013


I am lucky enough to again be staying at my friends house by Blackies..for a week..but this time I have not just the dog, I have her kids too... while her hubs whisked off to France and Italy for thier Anniversary and her Birthday!

So my first chance to surf is after dropping the kids off at school last Thursday.. wind blown, dirzzly mess..so I went home and napped..was still a bit under the weather.. I had a cold..its gone now.

Friday-tried again.. I almost didnt go out.. it looked a lot more intimidating than it really was! I actually had a GREAT time and it was much needed. What a difference a day makes. Warm clean water and great friends. I love my surf break! Although it can get beyond crowded and there can be lots of drama from time to time..but I cant see my life without this crazy surf family! After surf.. met up with my friend Laura for Lunch.. all my friends except for a handful live out here.. So when I am out here..I have a lot of visiting to do =-)

Saturday-had the kids and just took a walk in backbay and watched movies! Not a surf day.

Sunday- was SAN O day!! I again was still congested and not feeling 100% but I really wanted to attend our club Wahine Kai's annual end of summer party.. although it seemed to be a smaller crowd this year.. it was a fun event. I only surfed for about an hour..but I had fun surf! The waves were not big maybe 2-3 and soft and really hard to catch.. had to really work for them..since I could not breath i didnt go to far outside..but had fun none the less. Caught a few fun rides..and my favorite was my last a long right from outside all the way in till the wave stopped.. then I just laid on my board and paddle the rest of the way in and felt refreshed and relaxed!

Of course the time with my best girls although some were missing.. is always a plus! SO stoked April showed up with her new baby girl. Just a nice day and the kids im watching had a great beach day!
This is my friend Stephanie's surf wagon ... Cool ... Right!?!?

Monday-OMG it was an amazing fun and wonderful day..It was sunny, water was warm and clear, Dolphins were out..doing ariels right in the line up and of course great people in the water.. I was out for 2 and a half hours.. fun little waist high waves..with a few bigger waves here and there! FUN FUN FUN!I wore my spring suit and came out of the water because it was rubbing me on my leg and gave me a rash.. and it felt like my thigh was on fire.. 
Yes I know it does not look bad but when a wet wetsuit is rubbing on it .. That $h*# hurts!!
I could not take it any more..so I came in. Plus earlier in the parking lot ran into my friend Andrea and we made lunch plans. We had a very nice long lunch and the best talk! I again love my friends.. I have been very blessed to have some the best people in my life!
This picture really does not show what it really was like!! Seriously there was some big sets!! 
Tuesday(TODAY)-pulled up and there was a south wind on it..looked really jumbly and lots of close outs.. with a few corners and big. There were some over head waves out there. Looked fast and furious too. I was really thinking of not going out. It was overcast windy and cold.. stuck around an hour..the sun made and appearance and a few peeps said they were going in.. SO I said screw it! I am going in.

Water was still warm from what people said comming out.. some said it was fun others said it was tough. GUESS YOU NEVER KNOW UNTIL YOU GO OUT!
So i did.. I decided since i got a rash from my spring suit the day before not to wear that and my 3/2 was still wet from San O. SO I wore a rash guard and board shorts. YES in October..its always warm water in October.
Went out and it was hard to get outside..and it was rough out there...and a strong current and waves came from different directions..wind kept shifting too..BUT I HAD FUN! I never got too far outside..but there was enough inside to ride. I paddled turn catch a breaking inside wave or a close out most of the time...not much to choose from. I did that over and over. Paddle out, turn around, catch, ride, paddle, turn around catch ride. over and over .. I got close to getting all the way outside.. I was where some people were sitting..but the waves kept comming and I felt if I sat there I would be pummled.
Which brings me to what happen next.,.YES I got pummled!
I was going for a wave, because either way i would be screwed.. and not in the fun sense... nope it pretty much closed out right on top of me.. and i was tossed like a salad.. then i get up catch my breath and see another wave headed at me .. my board that i have no control of yet.. right in the impact zone and ready to come right at me..sideways... and IT DID! I just dove under ...but my board still smacked me in my head.. not like last time.. I mean if you saw what I saw .. this situation should have been a lot uglier.. I just got a lil headache.
I didnt feel too bad and was thinking of paddleing back out..but decided to take the next huge wall of water coming at me in. I did..and I just sat out for a while..Todd walked by and said it was fierce out there today.. I said tell me about it.. I got hit on my head.. he said with your board I said yes.. He said dont go back out.. =-(,, So i didnt plus surf was looking worse not better.

So I then came home (well Susans home) and blog about it.

I have one more day here.. tomorrow and you bet your bottom dollar I will be back out at Blackies..bruises, rash, headache and all!
Seriously... Does everyone get this beat up from surfing? I almost always do..:-(.. Not very attractive!


  1. Good to know that you're getting some wave time!

  2. YAY! great write up. hope all your life happenings are in check, and that surf is helping you get through it all