Surf Ohana!!!

I totally get what a surf Ohana is... 

We been surfing Doho a lot lately... As a matter of fact I surfed Doho  (Doheny) twice last week...nothing too exciting to report .... Monday was Ok ... Knee to chest high surf...

Me and hubs met our neighbor Daryl there and ran into Jo Ann.. Don from Blackies crew..And hubs High School buddy Carlos.. Who is also a local fireman in our city.. 

I can say I had fun surfing that day and Don got some good pix of me ...I have not seen Yet... Will post when I get them...... If I don't look like an evolving neanderthal like most of my pix usually do!

Friday ...Tracy kidnapped me and took me to Doho again...it  was a low tide surf and the rocks got me!! Fin hit a rock and instant  brake ... and I went forward .. Walking out stubbed my toe on a rock... And scrapped my heal... Not a fan of rocks or the dirty water at Doheny... But boy is that wave seductive ....I did not do so great... Waves were smaller where I surfed.. It was super crowded and when I did go to where there were bigger waves I had to fight for them... Too many people to deal with and I lost every battle ...even though one would have been a perfect wave for me a girl with a partridge family bus design long  board got it and came whizzing by me right when I was gonna get it... With my 8'0 i have to sit inside a little more to get these waves and no one allowed me...Bummed .. And over it that day and a bit off all around I guess... 

Back to Ohana....

Blackies crew and Wahine Kai and my bloggers are my Surf Ohana... And I love all of them... 

In Summer Blackies crew disperses to other breaks or travel for vacay... Since our break is a popular touristy and inland favorite with parking right at the beach.. I get to see a few of Blackies crew at Doho lately and Friday was able to see a few more I have not seen in a while... Yes Mike and Bart were  there... And this time Jo Ann and April and Don were there... It's like a family reunion feels good! So that was a plus for Friday at Doheny...

But today we decide to go to Blackies!! I decide my board needs new wax so last night I Strip my board... 

Yep Mo was naked!

I waited till it got cooler to put my base coat on...and wax...

This is base coat.. So mo is in his undies

 

To find out we have NO wax for the top coat!!!

 I need cool and or warm but I have only tropical...(like I'm ever gonna get to use that) and cold!!

I had  my glass of wine in hand .... Bob Marley playing in the background and a beautiful full moon night!!

The scene was perfect for my date with Mo !!!All I was missing was that euphoric smell of surf wax to be complete!! And I was running around the house like a crack head looking  for crack and devastated I had No wax!!! Noooooooooooooo the mood was ruined and I had to wait till we went to the beach tomorrow to get my fix... Although its not the same :-(

Next day on way to Blackies... Hubs wants to go early and I mean early he wants a dawn patrol... I'm telling him it's negative low tide at -1.32 at 4:32 am and surf prob won't be decent till after 8:00 maybe 9:00???

He still insist we go... We leave house at 5:15 am

My view on our way to Blackies.... 

Our neighbor was gonna meet us there... Not sure why we didn't carpool?? But i think Hubs was thinking we were gonna leave the beach earlier than him.

We get to Blackies it's flat!!!!

But.. We see more Blackies crew... Dawn... Kim.. Ray... Thomas And Bart and Bob showed up..

Kim and Dawn decide to paddle out even though its flat and low tide even just to paddle.... It's now about 6:30...

I say ok need to wax my board I will meet you out there...just to paddle and be with my friends!!

Mo finally gets top coat... Not the same in public in front  of people and on asphalt:-(... 

Any way ... Suit up grab Mo and go to play in the ankle biters...

Water was colder... It's really been dropping in temperature..

We play and catch a few in shallow water... Can't pop up so shallow so I glide in on my knees or tummy...

It was still fun and we were laughing and it was nice... Plus Kim is recovering from an ankle injury and can't stand up ... So this is perfect for her..

Tide fills in ... Brian and Daryl join us ...

And we start to catch a few here and there... 

Oh it was soooo bad there it was kookville.. And we were... I swear the only non begginers in the water...and I felt bad I was getting agitated with them.. And had to remember.. Poor surf.. Really a begginer break...Summer day.. And i kept telling myself...you were a begginer once..I mean one girl paddled right in between me and hubs while we are talking and there really was no room between us we could almost touch each other.. She had room on either side of us but nope docked right in there her board was basically touching ours..it was wierd... I rolled my eyes and paddled to the right of hubs and did say out loud I'm over these KOOKS!!!

Then I went for a wave ready to pop up and kid on a little board was right there.... He was always right there and when we paddles to get away from him... I swear he followed us!!

I know he was just a grom about 7 years old and he was cute ... But ugh... I know Be nice surfing grandma!!

Irma showed up and decided not even worth getting suited ... Lol... She told me later...

 I can just picture her on shore shaking her head and saying what is that Michelle thinking again??? 

But hey was out for over two hours and even though the rides were short... I can't beleive I caught anything on the 8'0. But I did and again 3 nice lil lefts... That helps a lot when surf conditions are not the best!

Got out ran into Jesse and Bill... again more surf family!

Was awesome day even if just to see some familiar faces that we been missing and to just go home for a visit!

Ohana =my surf family!