This was when we first arrived... Doesn't look bad right??? None of my pix show what we went through!! OR...
Looks can be deceiving!!
So our neighbor Daryl.... Who I would like to mention is 67 young!! He is awesome!! Just got back into surfing this year... He use to surf in his youth.. And tells everyone if you surf don't stop... It is hard to get back in.. Especially at my age....
He ROCKS!!! And I might add does not look his age at all.. I tell him I want to surf well into my 70's and he said I should have no problem if I keep at it !!!
Any way he told hubs he wanted hubs and I to surf Doho with him on Monday... I was yes yay of course!!! Plus he would drive... That's always nice too...
But then hubs tells me... Dawn Patrol got to get up before 4:30 am and Daryl is picking us up at 5:00 am....
But I get up at 4:00 and am already to go by 4:45!!
Tired... Not sure why we had to do a Dawn Patrol... But did one none the less..
Was in water by 6:00 am..
Waves looked a bit fast and some sets looked ok ... Others and majority... Not so much!
I stretch on land as they paddle out... More I watch ... Less I like what I'm seeing...
No real shape to the waves but they were about 2-3 with some 4 and even overhead sets on occasion!! But pretty much all big ole walls of close outs...
I walk back and forth with my board deciding where to go out... A big set rolled in where I thought I would paddle out... Change my mind walked back south a bit... And yet again one random big set comes in... I wait for some sort of break and paddle out...
Water smelled like a toilet ... Yuck!!!
Plus forgot to mention when we gotb there the bathrooms were filthy and the grounds full of trash!! Worse I have seen Doho.. Apparently that weekend was a surf festival... You would think surfers would not leave the beach like that!! Big disappointment to me!!
Any way back to surf...
Very few shoulders and when there were ...the good surfers got them... However Daryl and his 9'0 foam board were catching everything..
Hubs and I not so much... I did catch a few close outs.. Was catching more than hubs at the time...And did have a few wipe outs.. And honestly... I was not having fun I got worked trying to get outside.. And worked sometimes catching waves and wiping out.. Surfed almost an hour got out and watched from shore...
These waves sucked... Not the Doho I love!!
I had no desire to go back in!!!
I see hubs and Daryl both catch the same wave it was good.. Daryl took it all the way inside... Brian jumped off so he didn't have to fight getting back outside.
Then Hubs goes for a big one.. It was over head and when he went for it..my stomach dropped and I thought it was gonna be a nasty wipeout...
BUT he popped up dropped down and rode it for a bit.. Not all the way to shore but for a while! I was impressed!!! Where is a camera when ya need one!!
He was totally stoked on that wave... But after that he tried to get back outside and got whipped!!
He decided to come in... Tide was changing too from high to low... And the waves were weird..
Daryl came in too.. He said it was getting a little difficult... But he was having a blast... He kept saying it was his board and thinks everyone should get a 9'0 wave storm... LOL
Just FYI he has a Becker UFO and another board he was riding prior to purchasing his foam boards .. But he decided to go to foam.. And has a lot less struggles ... To each their own:-)
We wait get some water/coffee... the tide drop surf gets smaller and a tad better..
For some reason I thought surf got bigger when tide goes out.. But Really it got smaller... Am I backwards on this?? See I'm still learning!
Anyway.. I decide i do want to go back in and I want to surf the spot I surfed the last few times i was at Doho... So we all go out there...Just a little North down the beach... Just a few yards..
I catch more waves and am happier .. But I was tired and felt a little out of it... Maybe got up too early!!!
We surf another hour there.. Also My friend and life saver Mike shows up and says hi..
But it was time to call it a day... Plus surf school was just getting set up ...hard to surf with all the kids in the water.
We all take a nice ride in!! Probably my fav ride of the day...
We stop to eat some breakfast.. It's like 9:30sh after we leave Doho..
Was it worth getting up so early... Uh No.. Not to me ... Except there were not a lot of peeps in water... The Only plus..
Dawn Patrol Doho.... No go!!
Daryl calls hubs later that night and they decide to get up early again Tuesday and head to San Elijo... Well I was not invited... Boys trip.. Anyway I had NO desire to get up at 4:00 am!!
Funny they get all the way there and neither one can surf it.. Said it was too big for them..
They end up at Doho... And were home by noon!!! I was shocked!! I would think that much traveling would be a day adventure at least!!!!