Sunday, April 21, 2013

Time for Rest!

So I have decided... There is such a thing as too much surfing!
I surfed 4 days straight in a row!! Was really considering surfing today.. But my body needs to rest..
I was wondering if it's a good thing and I would get better surfing every day.. But this body of mine is saying other things!

So yesterday I surfed.. And still was weak in my push up position to pop up!
As you recall I had issues with that on Friday:-(

My plan was to get in early between 6:30 and 7:00 since I was right down the street... I got in at 7:30.or 7:45sh!?

I surfed by the pier for about 45 min. By myself.. It was bigger than the day before.. But dumpy.. Bumpy.. And fast..and not much shape if any.. Just close outs..I was not feeling it..

I did see Mike A fellow Blackies Blogger!
He saw me take one or two in!
Which one was prob my ride of the day.. A long fun right! Long by " Blackies standards"..Not like a long ride at Doho.
I got 2 compliments by 2 different Mikes. "by the way.. This was at the beginning of my second session. Excuse my as I jump around this post!"

So after I surfed a bit.. Was feeling a tad exhausted in the body.. Could still paddle.. So I thought I'm ok.

I took a break and went to the parking lot to find my friends.. They were all chatting in the parking other friend Joann who ended up not surfing.. Kept my meter fed.. BIG THANK YOU to her and her dad Don!

Got Susan rounded up and dragged her off with me.. Irma vanished and surfed by the Jetty.. Apparently Laura was there too.. I did not see her.. And they surfed together.. We surfed by the pier..
I only stayed back out another 30 minutes.. It was not fun to me.. And the drift or rip was pulling me out and North.. It was too much work just trying to stay put!
I got wet.. Was with my friends.. Did get some exercise in.. And it was becoming a beautiful sunny day!
So not a bad day.. Not my best day.. Or the funnest!
My saying of the day.. "Other day i surfed and rocked Doheny.. Came to Blackies and surfed like a Weenie!!"
I have decided.. I like small waves.. No bigger than 4 feet.. I like long easy slow glassy rollers!! I think that's more of what I'm going to focus on surfing. I am happy with this decision!

So brings me to the rest of my day.. Actually that should be part 2! So I will close post.. And start a new!


  1. Looks like you had more surf down there than we did up here. Enjoy it!

  2. Looks like it was fun, Michelle. Glad to hear that you're out there getting your surf on. I got skunked yesterday at HB. There was a lot of morning sickness in the water. Your would love surfing Old Mans, San Onofre.

    1. Dude!! I have surfed San O!! And I do like it!! Just a bit of a paddle out and those damn rocks!! And I don't have a pass!! Not to mention all the damn Shark Stories I have heard!!
      All that being said... He has not surfed San O... And I have decided we will surf San O and Doheny a lot this summer:-)

  3. Looks like a nice little break.