Monday, July 18, 2011

Happy Surf Aversary To Me!

This picture is beautiful San Onofre State Beach!


Well I had a very busy surf weekend. A lot of fun things to share and Sunday was my 2 year surf Anniversary. YEP been surfing and blogging now for two whole years...with many more to come.



I was hesitant about surfing this weekend, sore and healing shoulder and all. SO I saved my strength for Sunday. I really needed to surf on my Anniversary. Last year I was on a plane coming home from Tennessee if you remember? So I missed surfing my one year Anniversary.


I was finally able to go to San O! But sadly,I didn't surf it. It was my first time ever at San O! to celebrate one of my friends/surf club sisters Birthday.We organized a very fun Surprise Party for her. WELL Artie did,She did an amazing job too! We just showed up to celebrate. She is a Ukulele player and is also the person who got me interested in playing. OH have I mentioned I have taken up Ukulele yet? I shall blog about that in a separate post. WELL any way I learned and practiced HAPPY BIRTHDAY for her. So strumming on my Uke, Chowing down on some snacks and watching my friends surf is how i spent Sat. San O looks like so much fun. I cannot wait till I can surf it! The paddle out looks a tad far. BUT that just means a longer ride in. THERE were so many lefts, I was drooling. My friend took my board out. So I can say Tallulah surfed San O. Even though I did not get to ride her. I was very tmepted to just go in and catch one or two on the inside. THEY still looked fun. But I just didn't want to risk pain to my shoulder. I was saving it for Sunday.


So SUNDAY. Happy Anniversary to me. Began by driving to Blackies, Where it All Started. I was hoping it would not be crowded. Sunday+Summer=Crowds at Blackies. It is not fun then. BUT since that was my "teething ring" I really wanted to celebrate there. OF course it was crazy crowded before 7:30 AM NO parking. AND seriously the surf was not all that great! I drove around two times, I had to at least go to the scene of the crime, even if I was not able to surf it.


So I met my friend Laurie and her friend Chris and we surfed Bolsa.


Really not a lot of action. Doable. With my shoulder that was fine by me. IT was not as fun as the last couple times I surfed there, but I did get a few lefts and a few pearls. I would get the wave my board would drop and it always wanted to go nose first. I really thought I was pretty far back on my board. Bolsa wave is so tempermental. HA! Even when small the drop is hard sometimes.


SO a couple things happened in my under an hour of surf. I was so worried about my shoulder, and those pesky stingrays. AND I still have these blister things from the Dermatologist. So I didn't want those to pop. I wore a shorty, IT was soo warm, water and air.The only full suit (that fits me) I had is a 4/3 and I would have died of heat exhaustion in that. I know I was suppose to wear a full suit. BUT.... SO I really was not 100 focused at the beginning. I think that is why I pearled and wiped out more than usual.


But I relaxed and started doing better. I had just paddled back to the break from a wipe out. I looked over my shoulder to talk to Laurie she was paddling back out to, and then when I turned to look back at the ocean... A FIN was in my face. LITERALLY at my board. IT WAS HUGE and I planked on my board, I about had an accident in my wetsuit. My friend Laurie was yelling DOLPHIN!! it is a DOLPHIN!! It's OK!! I was still not sure. I was looking under my board, and all around, I have no idea where it went. It was there and then gone. IT was seriously right at my board. I could have touched it. It all happen so fast too. Even though it was a Dolphin, and everyone says they are friendly. THEY are still a wild animal, and still HUGE and intimidating when right in your face. We decided it came up to say Happy Anniversary to me. Although I was a bit shooken up, I still think it was cool and exciting.


I caught my last wave in and rode that puppy all the way to the sand. The nose of Tallulah was on the beach. It was a nice,fun,fast left. So Yes I was stoked especially since it was my last ride. What a way to end an anniversary surf sesh!

WELL it wasn't over yet. HA! If you ever been to Bolsa you know there are most parts of the beach where you have to walk up and out of the water, not just right onto shore like most beach breaks. I was at a part where it is about a foot of incline to get out. This lil incline consist of soft unstable gravel type terrain that is still in the water. It is covered in rocks,course sand and shells. Well as I was trying to get out with my board ,I slipped. NOT once but twice. The second time, I was hit by some white wash and my board fell on top of me and I got a bit tossed. RIGHT THERE in less than a foot of water. By the time I got out, my legs were scratched up and my left leg was dripping blood. I am sure it was quite entertaining. I know my friend Laurie's surf partner Chris thought it was. He just sat there with his head in his hands shaking his head..BUT he did say NICE Ride in. HA!

This is my mangled (what is the surf name for road rash?) LEG!

Yep at this point I think I may start looking into a wetsuit that is lined with bubble wrap!

This is my happier commemorative 2 year anniversary pix. After I cleaned up the leg!

2 comments:

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  2. Surfmama101.. what happen to your comment?

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