There is never a camera or a photographer around when you do something amazing and want proof.. but at least I have a nameless witness. ..ANY way this pix my daughter took yesterday, as we were waiting for the host and hostess of a BBQ we were invited to, to come home. She was going for something artistic here.. I actually like it. SO I thought I would use it.. I like how I am looking out to the sea...It is a standard surfing scene.. usually a surfboard and wetsuit are present..but again I was dressed for a BBQ ....
Well...I have had no Internet access for a while and I really wanted to post about my Saturday Surf Session... FIRST it was Saturday.. so you gotta go to the beach early to surf when it is "shoobie season".. (see earlier post for reference) SO I got up at 4:30..and I went to bed about close to 1 AM.. so I had about 3 1/2 hours sleep.. I Was soooo tired. BUT I HAD to surf it had been almost what 2 to 3 weeks..
I need to mention this YES!!! The water is so much warmer..Finally!! I didn't use booties and I think I can ditch my 4/3.. however the 3/2 I have is a bit snug.. I D K if I should try to lose some of the weight I gained back, or suck it up and just buy a bigger wetsuit.. ALSO the O'neils seem to run small..this is an O'neil and I never really tried it on prior. I got it if I did not fit into it..my daughter can..and she has claimed it. SO I think I am gonna use that as an excuse, to purchase a new 3/2..;-)
The surf sesh was short and sweet maybe an hour and half.. I got in the water just before 7 AM..BUT that hour and a half was fun. The waves were 2 to 3 and they were FUN!!!.. Did I mention it was fun?!?! MY first ride was this amazing left.... IT was the longest left I have done to date.. AND I tried to get tricky, and use talents I don't quite have yet and tried to cut back up the wave..but that was failure.. I fell off my board and it came RAIL first into my gut.. I just laughed...I did not get hurt.. I was on a high from my magic carpet ride I just experienced!! THIS surfer guy came up to me and said, "that was a sweet left".. I just smiled and said ,"RIGHT??? It was only my 3rd left to date".. and this was my first compliment ever from a random stranger.. WHAT a way to start a surf day!
I had another nice left after that..and I actually had to avoid hitting a lil beginner grom.. and I DID! much to my surprise, I handled and maneuvered my board to miss a collision. WOW! that was a first. By GEORGE I THINK I AM GETTING THIS!
Well after that I had a fun long straight ride to shore. I crouched the whole way, to keep control of my board on that one.. It was fast and bumpy and another (different) guy, said "that looked fun!" I said with a big smile, "it was!"
I had a few times where I was up and off..but that didn't matter, the 3 GREAT rides made my day. I would have stayed out longer if I could..BUT my paddle powered pooped out..and I just did not have it in me any more. I had the whole day till 3 PM..but I just couldn't do it..WELL at least I made good use out of the 1 1/2 hours I could hang!
I could not believe how fast the beach filled up with Shoobies too, It seems like they are coming to the beach earlier and earlier.. which is not a good sign.. because that just means that blackball flag comes out earlier too. =(.. OH how I am already anticipating the FALL!
look at that sexy grand'ma on the picture! No wonder you have so many admirers in the water. Forget about loosing weight. You're gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteNice tat you got thar down on yer ankle...what is that? If I may, I concur with Surfing Mama...those pants definitely do not need any more weight taken from them. ;-)
ReplyDeleteTHANKS GUYS!!.. and Pabs..make me blush.. My tat is a seahorse and it has 5 air bubbles with each one of my kids initials in it.. YES 5 kids, they are almost all grown up too.. and I am a grammy..! I run, bike ride, Yoga, and of course surf..and I eat pretty healthy, with occasional indulgences..=).. I did lose a lot of weight recently..but have gained a few lbs back.. Hence 3/2 not fitting so well...If you look at pix when I started my blog.. you can tell I have worked hard to be where I am now. I credit most of it to SURFING..it got me out of my funk..(a tad of depression,I went through a lot made me gain weight)but the discovery of surfing and the friends I met, made me get back to my old self in more ways than one! =)...BUT the post is not about my picture..what about my LEFT!!! and the sharpening of my skills!
ReplyDeleteForget the tat, I'm all about the left! What a feeling when you start to be able to run down the line and throw in some turns. Bring on the stoke!
ReplyDeleteTHANKS GK!! THAT IS WHAT IM SAYING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ReplyDeleteWow! What a post! Who needs a picture I can totally see you in my mind taking on the awesome left! Sounds like an amazing time. You are a complete hero in my book getting up so early with so little energy to catch some surf. I will think of you for inspiration the next time we get a set here. It is always a great feeling to share your stoke even if it was with a complete stranger. It reminds me of when we were out a local spot and my husband was talking to a man and his wife on the beach who were visiting from Michigan. I had to laugh when my husband said the man broke him in mid sentence to say Wow! Did you see what your wife just did, she caught that wave and rode it in! It made me laugh, because I was thinking the same thing and I just knew no one saw it, but someone did! That man made my day! Big smiles! I waited for that rogue wave and totally made it happen. It was a huge celebration in my mind as it was the end of a very long day. So I did not know but do they black flag you guys when there are too many surfers?
ReplyDelete@ Rad surfing mom.. they put the yellow flag with a black ball up when the beach gets over crowded.. then you have to surf left of that tower.. IF you are looking at it from the break. UNLESS the next Tower is black balled you just keep going left till you dont see one any longer. LOL. YOU can still surf mats and boogie boards. NO hard boards..BUT I wonder if you can surf a soft top surfboard? I do not know the answer to that..hmmm
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