Saturday, June 11, 2011
What? This is consider a NOT SO GREAT SURF DAY???
Surf report said 2-3 fair.. I say 2 feet consistent and glassy and AMAZING! I had the best time out there last Thursday!! 2 hours of non stop fun.. AND yes the waves were not "the best"..but I LOVED THEM! Also since it was Thursday with not the best conditions = no crowded surf in one of the most notorious crowded breaks...which made it that much more enjoyable..And the peeps who were out there were all mellow. Surfed from 8:30 to 10:45.. caught wave after wave..practice my pop up..had another one of those fun left turns.. and I learned to pump my board to keep it going..then another push of white wash took me all the way in. Fun Fun!!!
Yes the waves did not have the inertia behind them..but they were still fun. Even though most of the rides were short.
I did decide to attempt a right.. I paddled, popped up arched my back to go right..and I went right.. Right off my board backwards!!! HAHA! Nestea plunge off a surf board. Oh well I tried.. I guess I will get it one day.. I am getting this left thing now! But just never seems to be a lot of left waves..and if there are..everyone else gets them..BUT again I am learning..and someday soon I will be the one getting ALL the lefts.
ALSO.. the Dolphins were performing again... and this time so close. We were literally in their splash zone from the ariel acrobats they were doing! I also thought they were gonna come up to us and say hello.. which I think I would have been a bit intimidated by. I said to one guy, "they are getting very close maybe we should back up a bit", He said "naaa they are friendly".. I said "well they are still a wild animal"...as I paddled in a bit. We all just sat there and oohed and awwed.. a few nice decent sets came in and everyone was in awe of the dolphins no one went after the waves.. finally another set came in and I said.. oh I guess we should not let these go to waste.. haha and when I said that it was almost like I broke a spell and 3 of us went after the same wave..but it was ALL GOOD..
I have to say.. this may have been one of my favorite sessions out there. I first sent the above picture out to friends with the title doable!? Thinking well I will at least be getting wet and get some paddling in.... what a pleasant surprise to get so much more.
One kind of bummer thing happen.. don't know how really???..but when I came in and preceded to take my wetsuit off. I got this sharp shooting pain from my wrist to my elbow, I felt it in my stomach, it made me nausea, and I teared up! I was what the?? So I took my suit off with one hand.. then thinking maybe I just moved my wrist wrong. I didn't think much else of it.. but went to open a water bottle.. same pain and I dropped my bottle. SO wrist is still sore.. today SAT.. and I have a salon pas patch on it and a brace.. only when I move it a certain way does it hurt. NOT bruised, not swollen..but the pain is very excruciating when it hits..I am hoping it will go away.. I don't have time to get to a Dr. and get x rayed.. And I have plans next week to run away to Big Bear and do a lot of outdoor activity's there..Anyway..I didn't have a wipe out, except my Nestea plunge incident..So I don't know what happen??.. can I chalk this up to a surf injury???.. HAHAHAHA!
Again Regardless.. I had an amazing day, no crowds, fun waves, easy paddle out, good people and performing wild life.. then I had coffee and chit chat with a friend, got my hair done.. and was informed my son is all packed and coming home from his deployement soon.. Sore wrist?!?!?.. well that was just a hiccup in my amazing day!