Sunday, March 6, 2011

My Love affair with surfing trumps the Break I dread going to!

This is a picture of the infamous break..BUT not taken yesterday.BUT it looks a lot like our day yesterday SO I thought it would work!

I was able to get in the water yesterday. I surfed a break that is not one I enjoy.. I have never had anything good happen to me there. It is a longer paddle out, Usually windy, Usually closes out and almost always breaks on shore. Not a sandy break, if i don't wear booties(which I rather not if I don't have to)my feet get a bit scratched up, rocky and broken shells. Need a state pass or belly up the $15 fee. But I usually carpool THANK GOD FOR FRIENDS WITH PASSES!

First time I surfed there. I was actually sick and didn't really know it till the next day. So trying to surf when you are sick is not fun I had no energy, kept feeling nausea and just needed to be in bed.. Then the other time I tried. It was too big and I could not get outside. I was a real beginner and it was too much, and I was scared to death of these waves. Then one time drove down and it was breaking on shore and it was so bad, we just took a walk instead. One time I went with a friend and any time I got a wave..if I did ,I wiped out..but The sting rays were every where and when I wiped out I as so afraid of them I just kicked madly not to touch the bottom. Then one time it was foggy and it freaked me out so I didn't want to go in. Just never fun times.The waves are different there. I can't explain it but This Break just rubs me the wrong way..THE GOOD THING about it is, it is not as crowded as my home break. A lot of people say it is a good begginer break..but I dont see how?

BUT it was the only surf in town. So we decided to check it out.
There was 6 of us and we sat and watched the waves, as we waited for the tide to go down. Regardless we were going in. I had a friend who already came and went and said it was not so great. BUT when you need a fix. You take what you can get. The last time I surfed was two weeks ago. I remember when I didn't even surf that much..I was OK with surfing when I could BUT NOT NOW. I have to try at least every week.. and if I have to go about 2 weeks without it, I get antsy!

So we waited for the tide to go down suited up and went in. Water was freezing but the day was sunny and warm. Paddle out was not so bad, the swell seem like it was trying to produce some big waves, but they never broke and when they did it was on the shore. That was a bit intimidating to see a swell coming and this is how I think "oh wow this is gonna be big, I don't know if I want to try this.. I am still afraid of bigger waves"... but most of them just never performed. Just rolled right by or you paddle and nothing, never breaks... Part relief, part disappointment. But some did break..I only caught 3 of them. 2 wipe outs both times I pearled. I HATE THAT!! one wave I caught and just boogie boarded it in. Not enough time to stand. some of the other girls caught a few rides. but they were few and far between for them.The rides were short too.

I did stay out in that break the longest i have, so I take that as an accomplishment. I would really like to work on a few things. Especially since seeing my pictures from last time.. like not popping up like a grandma, and remembering to stay low. I get a bit discourage, when I can't work to improve myself. BUT ALL IN ALL.. I did get some exercise, paddling work out and I got wet..Also It was a nice sunny day and I was in good company.

Even though this was not my BEST day surfing.. but as for this Break.. it was probably the best time I have had here to date, I will give it another chance one day... But it is still not on the top of my list!


  1. I appreciate your honest posts and I can relate over and over again! My biggest problem is turning into the wave after you stand up! I could nit believe how fast the wave carries you like a bullet! When I get back out into the water I have to learn where to put my body on the board to prevent nose dives and weeble wobbles! I love the challenge and I look forward to learning more. The big wave scare is something but as far as I am concerned the right wave is not to big or not to small. I remember getting caught in a wave that was too big and it bent my body on half! So I learned that a wave that is too big is not for me. Don't forget the breath holding waves too! Surfing is the most physically demanding and that is one of the reasons I love it so!

  2. Big waves are sometimes easier to catch and ride than small ones: Size is not what matter (believe it or not ;)). To me, SHAPE is more important. I surfed large swell which were breaking in a friendly way: they are shaped like a triangle and are not really breaking: a mushy white water forms at the peak and rolls quietly. These are fun on the shoulder even though they're "big". On the opposite some small waves can be nasty, fast and hollow. I got hurt more in those ;( But don't get me wrong they're also some BIG and NASTY ones. Those days I take pictures from the beach ;)