Rest In Peace Pabs<3...

I could not sleep ... So decided to read my surf blogs... And a friend of Pabs posted in Pabs last blog "One Man Crowd" he passed away last Sunday Jan. 13, 2013 of a pulmonary artery embolism....

I'm so heartbroken to hear this news as a lot of my fellow bloggers know he was part of our blogging family. ... Surf mama and I had the honor of meeting and surfing with Pabs this last summer... He was so charming and we had so much fun although he did have a medical issue... That I am not entirely sure was really diagnosed :-(...He still surfed with us in pain and all! He also met members of my surf club...they all found him sweet and charming as well!

With my whole heart I mean this .... You will be missed !

Hope you are now catching the perfect wave!

Much love as you rest in Peace!

Feeling Pretty Awesome!!!

Well it's been cold and surf has been flat last time I surfed was Jan 5th and it was not eventful I caught 4 waves at Blackies and it was cold!!!!!

I did surf today and I will get to that... Again really not eventful ....

Let's catch up...

I have been doing my January detox and doing really well!

No alcohol, dairy,meat not even chicken or seafood no caffeine /coffee no sugar no processed or minimally processed.. No fast food and I have been reducing my gluten intake as well ... Basically eating vegan/wheatless !!
I'm doing great!!! I feel great and I have more clarity and my senses are elevated especially my sense of smell!
I have not done any extreme exercise just 10 sun salutations every morning and walking or other yoga . Although last couple days I have been riding my sons longboard skateboard up and down our street.. And pulled my back muscle which is still sore ... Does that count as "extreme" exercise???

I did my 3 day cleanse where I just had green smoothies and salad with lots of veggies w/ lime or lemon and a cabbage veggie soup for three days and detox tea and water... Just happen I was on that fasting type cleanse last time I surfed so yeah not a lot if energy!

Now I have so much energy and lost 11 lbs!!! Woot woot!

I had some health issues ( I don't want to go into) but found out I'm ok!!! But during blood work found out I have high cholesteral !! Never ever have I had that before ... But I'm sure this diet and cleanse will help with all that!.

I also think I have a good job lead... Been interviewing at a real estate office with a few agents for an assistant position And I think I will be employed by end of the month ... Fingers crossed! I do like this office and the people! All big +'s!!!!!!!!

This weekend I'm pet/house sitting in Sunset Beach... Same house I stayed
at on my staycation last year almost to date ;-)

I got here last night and missed the sunset. ... But not today ....
I got up cleaned the cat boxes scooped dog poop and fed everyone...took the dog ... Otto on a 30 minute walk.. Then I rode a beach cruiser from sunset to HB pier .. Surf looked ok but I was waiting for my friend Irma at noon... I stopped to see my friend Eric out at Bolsa took pix and a poor guy who was surfing next to Eric just got out got hit by a Stingray after his first wave ... I felt so bad for him...blood was pouring from his heal OUCH!!!

Bike ride was 12.8 miles round trip 2 hours!!! I did stop at Bolsa and then at the Pier and did some stretching...
Came back to the house changed pack Tahoe and caught up with Irma at Bolsa...

I also gave Mo a fresh wax job after last surf session so Mo was fresh and ready to go! It feels good to have a cleaned & Freshly wax board!

It was a beautiful day... Not much wind yet and surf was not so great but we paddled out and the water was cold cold cold ... I think it was 51 degrees... I think I can handle 54 and that's it ! But again it was such a pretty sunshiny day! A pod a dolphins were outside and a big ole sea lion was inside .. We were surrounded by sea wild life! And surfing in vicinity of the stingray!

I caught 3 close outs ... That is all! Irma caught a nice long left... I was paddling for it too ...but here came Irma down the line and she looked so graceful and like she was having FUN! I'm surprised there was even one wave like that at all! We surfed for an hour ... It got blown out and swampy so we came in and realized we were the only surfers out there!

Came back to the house took a shower and drove around did some errands... Back in time to catch the sunset as seen in the following pix!

This my friends was an eventful day! And yes all was done with a sore lower back... Time for a salon pa patch...
I am not going to let that slow me down ;-)

Wonder what adventures awaits me tomorrow????

Enjoy the pix!

Here Is To An Amazing New Year!!

I am starting my New Years off with a Positive Bang!!!

I put it in writing so i have to follow through and keep a journal everyday ... So yeah only Day 3 but I'm off too a good start! Today I did some fat burning Yoga.. And feel great!

I'm cleansing with a plant based diet detoxing and clearing my head and eliminating negativity and reinventing myself and I will be employed!!!

(oh and speaking of plant based diets I suggest everyone watch the documentary "Forks over Knives"... Enlightening!)

I surfed this past weekend ... I stayed at my pseudo vacay home near the beach!
Surfed my friends Art in Motion boards again...
They are fun and I did better on that single fin 8'0 but I love my MO... And I missed him terribly this weekend !

So Sunday I surfed Blackies and I surfed with my friends Irma , Kevin and Laura south side of pier because it was crazy crowded !!
It's been rainy and windy and the day before I drove through the lot and a surf school was giving lessons in the rain and wind... But waves looked good...only the school was there.
So I guess with the Weather and Holidays everyone wanted to surf the first sunny yet still cold day! Waves were about 3-4.

I surfed the 9'0 first and did not do well ... Must have been the waves ... The nose is flat also and it just didn't want to cooperate ... I did better next day in different surf conditions on that board.
Then I got the 8'0 and did better but I still need to work on balance with a single fin.. I caught waves inside with that.. I think 2 on the 8'0.. But nothing really worth mentioning.

Monday surfed Bolsa used the 9'0 and had 2 really fun long rides...
But the paddle out was odd I felt stuck and it took a lot to get back out.
I surfed with Artie, Laura and Terri ... Irma never showed up???
Any way I let Laura try the 9'0 And I tried her 7'0... Which was very difficult ... I had the hardest time just trying to sit outside with it... I didn't even attempt to surf it...
So after Laura caught a wave and tried the board with the big (butt) tail.... We traded back..
Yep 8'0 is smallest I'm going .... And I'm perfectly Happy with that!!!

After my second fun ride I could not get back out.. I paddled paddled paddled and did not get anywhere ... I was frustrated and worn from paddling so I stayed in and watched ... Waves were getting worse and no one was catching them where we were and I saw one guy struggling to paddle out same place I was ... So I am happy I came in :-) .. Tide was getting high and funky.
When we started surfing Laura said waves were small... But when we stood on the sand before going out... I saw some head high waves... And said to the others ... That's not small!!!
1-2 is small anything chest high and over I get a bit intimidated by... But have learned knee to chest is my favorite conditions !

Any way I did not get many pix... I took one of my hubs boat( he worked a whale watch trip and drove the boat that day) we watched as it was coming into the Harbor as sun was setting from the tide pools on Sunday. Also kids surfing in the rain and of my Detox plan in writing!
Sorry for not taking better pix.

Here is to a much better 2013!!! There is so much that needs to change this Year! And it will...
And here is to Fun Surf in 2013 as well!!!

A winter dip in the cold pacific

I have surfed 2 times since my last post...
Tis the season keeping me busy and the weather.

I can't remember the last surf experience I know it was At Blackies.... Been surfing Blackies a lot... It's where hubs likes to surf... But I need to mix it up soon.. Lol

Any way the only thing I remember from the time before last was I caught all the waves but nothing too extreme ... My hubs got his first surf owie
He wiped out and took a fin to his leg..it ripped his wetsuit... But did not cut his skin... Just Left a red mark and bruised.

So yesterday we surfed Blackies was in traffic and the cold temps were making me think twice about this decision! Then surf sucked low tide and waves at 1-2 no shape and air temp 45 and water at 56..
It was cold and I did take a while to warn up... But I have surfed colder before.

I caught one left 3 close outs i just rode in like a boogie board and 1 wipeout..
I got out because the cold was making my right leg and hip cramp.. And I could not surf any more.... Guess its part of being a Grandma ;-)

Hubs didn't catch but 1... He was experiencing the intimidation you feel after a wipeout from last time.. I kept telling him he just needed to catch one just one even If he pops up in white wash... To get over it...
He caught one and we called it a day!

But the day was clear and you could see Catalina Island and I just needed to be out there!

So I'm saying it was a good day surfing..
Then I spent the evening with hub on the boat while he worked the Christmas parade.... houses and boats with extravagant decorations and lights.... Really helps to get you in the Holiday spirit... And the friendly company and wine helped too!!

Like I said Tis the season!

Wishing you and yours a Very Merry Christmas from me and mine!!

Felt A Need To Blog

So as promised I will update you regarding the last couple surf sessions ... But the last day I surfed was Thanksgiving and I have been in a bit of a fog since .. With all that has been happening .. So I'm going to try and remember ... I really can't tell you exact days but close to them...

I believe the weekend before
Thanksgiving is the best place to start although I have had a few surf sessions prior...

One hubs and I surfed Blackies and I just remember it being such a fun day!!! I knew I needed it too... I just don't remember anything other than I out surfed hubs..
;-)....That always makes it a good day!

Any ways.. I was house sitting and using my friends boards ... Custom by Todd of Art in Motion...
On Saturday I used her 9'0 pig at Bolsa.. Single fin and a shape I never used before...very big fat wide tail and also wide in middle but rails thin and light...
Waves were small and mushy hard to catch ....

I was really interested and eager to see what this board was all about..

The paddle out was so easy and the board was so floaty... I was a bit surprised because of how thin it was..

I caught 2 I believe that day... 1 I paddled twice and the board did all the work... Fricken crazy... I loved it easy to surf and fun!!

Second one ...a bit more challenging ... But not the boards fault..you really had to work for the waves..but I was oh wait I caught it.. And quickly popped up.

That's all I remember about that surf session.. Except it was with Irma "she brought her doggie Peter" and Val surfed too.. We had a great talk in the parking lot
and my daughter Tabi and I ate at Mitsuwa after... And it was cold surf session!!

Following Monday...
Hubs surfed the pig and I surfed Susan's 8'0 single fin .. I thought it was going to be just like surfing Mo... But it was not :-(... We surfed Blackies and I just was not feeling it... I caught 3 waves and 1 wipeout .
1st wave I had the hardest time trying to pop up... My balance was off .... I was off as soon as I was on ..

2nd one ... I stood and rode but seem like a lot of work to balance...

3rd my wipe out and a lot of swallowed water... I HATE those salt water cocktails!!!

4th a boogie board style ride in to throw up the swallowed salt water!!

My favorite part of that day ... Randomly running into Jen outside..we were both"Hey!!!!"

I have to say I was so not in the right state of mind to be learning a new board..my thoughts kept straying to Lorri and how she was doing .. Especially since the night before I heard she was taking a turn for the worse :-(..

So I was done surfing for the day..I was over it...

However hubs was still out there and there were some head high sets coming in... He even went for a few!! I held my breath and said out loud... What are you doing??!?!?

He had a few wipeouts ... But kept paddling back out for more!! I was wondering if he knew how big they were..??
I was proud of him.. But yet still worried and my stomach hurt watching him . And all the boards around him flying in the air... Never a good sign .. One guy was leash less and his board almost hit hubs as he was paddling for a wave.... My daughter and I both gasped at the same time.. I was like a worried mom... Just wanting him to come in!!

After that we returned Susan's boards and went back home ..

Then we surfed Thanksgiving morning..
Hubs grabbed the wrong wetsuit so he could not go in...

It was seriously Crazy crowded!! I could not believe how many people were out there...

My friend Laura and Artie showed up.. We surfed South side of pier.. Less crowds.
I caught 2 I think.... I just know 1 was amazing a real fun easy long left!! My wave of the month honestly!!

You know when you just get that one wave... THE ONE that just makes everything better?.. Yep I needed that!
Didn't stay out long but was very happy with that session..

Had to get back and make Thanksgiving dinner for Hubs family.. Our first without Uncle Gene.. Already an emotional time... Was preparing my veggies and Turkey..
But then I got the phone call I really did not want to hear.... Lorri left us that morning...

I have to say that wave was probably a heaven sent gift from my friend ....she knew I would need it!

Following are pix of the boards and my Udon noodle lunch from Mitsuwa--- that's for my boys KK and DD ;-)

Difficult times

I have not posted in a while... Since my last post... Me and my family have been hit with a few challenges... I don't know if that is the right word??
After the last surf session you read about I got a phone call a dear family member uncle Gene was in the hospital again...not doing well... Early within October...he was diagnosed with Pancreatic cancer.We thought we had more time... It was only stage 2...
However the next day he came home..
He was put in Hospice care.. The following week (2 weeks ago)he passed away peacefully..

Hubs and I have surfed a few times to clear our heads and center ourselves...

On top of all this my unemployment ... More rejection e mails from job prospects and hubs work slowing down ... Really taking a financial toll on our household...This has put me in a not so great place... I'm not sure what we are going to do and what direction I should take. I'm feeling very misplaced.

My friend Lorri was gonna help me put things in perspective after the funeral and help me reinvent myself and get back on track.

The ocean is so healing and soothing and there when you need it most..
Non of the recent surf was very eventful...
But it was very healing and helpful...

While we were getting ready to attend Uncle Genes wake/rosary.... I got more sad news... That tore me apart.
My dear friend Lorri suffered a ruptured brain aneurism the outlook for her was not good...
But she made it to the hospital and survived surgery and every day seemed like a better day..however.. She was in critical condition and in coma the whole time...

My friend Susan and her family needed to go out of town last weekend and I pet/house sit for her.. She lives close to the beach... It's our little get away... I call it our Pseudo vacay home;-)
She always is so grateful we stay and take Care of her home and doggies... But I always feel its such a treat when we do! Plus she has a well stocked wine fridge we are allowed to raid... As long as we stay away from the top shelf :-D
Something we needed Perfect timing... She also let me use her state pass to get into Bolsa and use her Custom boards by Todd of Art in Motion.
Last weekend I surfed Bolsa... And Blackies using 2 of her boards ...
( I will do another post on that)

We came home from the beach on Monday...
I been getting ready for Thanksgiving ...during this time I have been trying to understand and cope with my friends condition.... We had a wonderful prayer group gathering on Tuesday for Lorri organized by a family that has become dear to me during this time as well.

The next day the Doctors met with Lorri's family and shared a poor prognosis ..

She left this earth yesterday... :-(

So... I have not been in a state of mind to blog...but I did receive an email last night from Bron in Australia.... Checking up on me.... And wondering where I have been??.

So I thought I would update you all...

I'm here...time will heal... The Ocean will soothe ...And I have amazing friends who are giving me love and support...I will be fine!

Right now I need to try and get some perspective on all this...

Here are a few pix from the last couple surf sessions and a walk I took in back bay by Susan's home.
And a pix of Lorri and one of Uncle Geno.

Halloween Surf at Bolsa

It was so much fun!!!!!

I was going to attend both Newport Beach Blackies and our Wahine Kai Bolsa Chica Halloween surf.. However being unemployed and gas prices... Left me to choose one or the other... So I chose the surf club event.

We had to wait till 10 am due to high tide.. Surf was not the best... But good enough!

We had a lot of fun... However I feel I did A lot of paddling and not a lot of catching waves...

I caught 4 ... They were not great.. One was short and sweet... One i stood up and the momento stopped so i was just standing on my board for a minute.. Not moving or nothing... Sort of funny. One i had great style and not a picture!! Then i had one where i did a lil jig on my board ... Lol and my last one I did not stand up.., just put my arms out while on my belly and flew in... All the way to shore!

It was hard staying on my board in a maids costume... I kept slipping off my board sideways.. Yes I surfed in my bikini with a maids costume thrown over and some board shorts! Thank goodness water was warm... But at first it was a tad shocking paddling out.. I was worried it was going to be too cold... But the sun was out and I was actually very warm!.. I also wore booties on my feet!
The costumes were so cool!!! My friend Irma was Wonder Women my friend Tracy was a pirate.. My friend Susan who won best costume at Bolsa was Carmen Miranda... She got best wipe out for the Blackies contest..and our club pres was a cow.. And there were much more!

Well I will now put on a ton of pix!! Much better than words !!! Enjoy...