I just love to surf and I love HB!

OK I know almost everyone reading this is probably a surfer... So I know you understand and relate!

When I first left the house in the morning, I was having 2nd thoughts,thinking I am crazy leaving on a 38 degree morning travel 37+ miles, to go and get in the cold pacific ocean, AND..not sure if there will even be surf.. There must be something wrong with me?!

yeah..um can you say "Addiction?"

I had a few first again.. and even if I did not, Wednesday still would have been one of those favorite surf days. I have been having more favorite surf days than not..SO I lost count at which is my favorite to date..MAYBE the day I stood up for the first time.. or maybe my first(and so far only) overhead wave.. or when I first went left, or right...but I say this day was right up there.

Of course when it is my day off the forecast and ocean decide to go flat..(always happens to me either that, or we just got over some rain, or its windy.. (the wrong kind)..but low and behold.. WE FOUND LIFE IN HB!

My friends daughter was in surf competition by the HB Pier, for her High School surf team so, since she was there, she gave a surf report, said it was small, but not flat just south of the competition, which was South Side of the pier.... OH AND a shout out to her Daughter Irene.. GOOD JOB!!!! She took home 1ST PLACE LONGBOARD DIVISION!!! Also the only one to take 1st place in her whole team!

SO what made this small surf day so special?
ONE) there was surf 2-3'(ankle to knee, with some very occasional and rare waist high)but nothing bigger, and fun. Could have had a little more push to the waves. BUT I HAD A BLAST..

TWO) Of course the company I keep, the girls I surf with are the best. They all rock and are so encouraging. Today there were 4 of us and our honorary Wahine Kai guy, Eric. Plus the other people in the line up were so chill and cool. Till some young groms came and crashed into my friend Jen. They were kind of annoying youngens too...anyway lets not ruin the great vibe here...

Three) I caught so many rides I lost count.

As for my "FIRSTS"... We surfed Huntington Beach..First time I ever paddle out past the break there and actually surfed. I kinda surfed there one other time when I was beginning..but it was a hard day and the ocean was not very nice, and I never made it out past the break. I also hear it is so localized and was not sure about that, So I was a bit scared to go today.

Another first. I borrowed my friend Laura's 7'9" and actually surfed on it. It is the smallest board I have ever been on. BUT I rode waves on it. NOT very gracefully, It was odd to me. Such a difference going from a 9-0 to a 7-9.. that 2 feet and 1 inch is a big change. I had no idea where the heck to put my body on it. Then I felt I was too far up on the nose. Paddling was different. It was SO light. But when I started figuring it out..(after one yucky wipe out, I tumbled like I was in a Maytag dryer for a minute or two)..I was shocked I could ride it. BUT Tallulah is my security blanket/board. And I felt like when I was on the 7'9" I was in a canoe in the ocean, and the 9'0'was like being on the fishing boat the Nautilus.. haha..but I am happy I did it. "NOW I am looking forward to my 8'0 Val!!!"
Anyway.. boards were passed around that day. I just tried the one. Laura tried mine and another. I thought it was hilarious to watch Eric on my big pink board.

I also had another and to date my best, right! So I guess I know what I am doing. As a matter of fact. I had a wave crash in front of me, as I was paddling back out to the line up, Instead of going through it, I spun my board around and didn't even paddle as I caught a ride, haha! I yelled I am cheating as I rode some white wash in. My friend Laura, said she does not want to ever see me in white wash again..HER words were something like this.. "You are above and beyond that, you can catch waves..If I catch you going after white wash again.. I am cutting your leash!".. aww I so feel the love.. and I genuinely mean that in a nice way..The girls I surf with really do rock, and have mine and we have each others back. I know I have come a long way, but their words of encouragement help me to see that much clearer.

I feel like the lil caterpillar is leaving the cacoon and becoming a butterfly.. SO question..when am I NOT a KOOK any longer?

Well I am at work for another 8 days..So I am hoping to get back in the water a week from this Saturday.. or if I get the cajones again..and surf cooperates. I may sneak in a dawn patrol before work on Sunday...
See ya in the water!

YES I DID!

I did it I woke up at 5 AM drove 37 miles to my nearest break, my home break. It was pitch black when I left my house as seen in top pix. I was in the water before 6:30 and out by 7:30 came home and got ready for work and made it to work by 10 AM.. yep so this maybe a new Sunday thing. I don't know how many people would attempt a 74 mile round trip for an hour of surf..Call me crazy! I needed it.

Surf was fun 2 footers pretty consistent. But I don't know what was wrong with me. I sucked. I only caught close outs...I caught one decent lil ride inside..but I just could not focus or something...
I did not get much sleep, for a few reasons. 1) my allergies or I am getting sick again were going crazy last night, I kept getting up to blow my nose, actually my nose is so sore that when the salt water touched it, it burned. 2) my daughter had her friend spent the night and those teenage girls were noisy and my Chihuahua kept growling and barking all night.. and my husband was snoring. I am surprised I even woke up at 5..well I did press snooze 2 times, so more like 5:15.
I also think I was so worried about time and making it to work and wanting to surf,I was too anxious to catch waves. I just didn't relax and focus. I looked like I didn't know what I was doing out there today.
I also realize I talk to myself, about the waves coming at me,or when I mess up, I am sure people think I am a schizophrenic crack head. LOL..but I promise you I am not. I just analyze too much and talk out loud about it, my way of walking through it in my mind. I will need to work on that.

I like getting to the beach early, I was one of the first 10 peeps in the water and it is cool to see the sun come up. My friend Artie the trooper she is joined me. I thought the water was gonna be cold..but surprisingly it was fine. Booties are a lifesaver. I don't know how I surfed in the winter months prior to this??

By the time I was getting out 7:30sh.. the break was getting crowded. I was going after a wave, it was a left just what I wanted. I was so stoked I thought I had it, then I looked to my right and everyone and their brother were on that wave. They were right on top of each other, I of course backed off. I caught my last ride in a left from the inside. It was time to go.
BUT I am happy I went. I like watching the sun come up. I like seeing the dolphins first thing in the morning. Even though I sucked. I think I may make this a Sunday habit. Work or no work. Early morning surf sesh to start the day.

Just call me Chicken....or Sane?

Picture of Blackies when we just got there,right before the tide was getting high.

I know I have not surfed in a while. It was either raining, or had just rained on my last couple of days off!
So I was so excited to see the rain did not arrive on Turkey Day, so I could surf on Friday. Seriously I am not into getting hurt or injured or pepper sprayed for a discount on some consumer item, So was all too happy to skip the Black Friday hype to surf.. and was hoping everyone else was shopping.. WRONG!
When I put the call out a few girls said they wanted to surf. I said cool I will catch up with you all on Friday morning and make a game plan!
Friday morning came and I get reports from friends about the monstrous high tide..of course when I am headed out to surf. I thought that meant the tide would be too big and waves would be swampy?

Look how big it got!

Well The tide was high, the water washed all the way up to the wall at Blackies. BUT the waves were HUGE too. I say easily average wave was 6 ft. They were also fast. I know for some or most surfers that is what they want. BUT it was too dangerous looking for me. AND crowded. I saw so many wipe outs. Boards flying up into the air when the wave closed out. I saw so many people almost get beheaded by surfers while some were paddling out, others whizzed right by their heads. Looked like rockets. I also saw surfboard after surfboard wash to shore with out a surfer attached. Talk about dangerous. One surfer also hauled in what looked to be a big piece of plywood from the surf.. OUCH that would hurt if it hit you!
Two of my friends were out there. One said after catching one wave she was wondering what she was doing out there. SHE is a talented surfer, So I knew if that is what she was thinking, I would die, just die if I attempted to paddle out. My other friend loved it out there. Just it was crowded and people were all going after the waves, Dog eat dog and everyone was out for themselves. So after a few she came in.
Watching the show from shore was crazy, My stomach was hurting with all the excitement.


Even after watching all that I was still antsy..but I knew better. I really didn't feel like dying that day, I have grandchildren I want to watch grow up, and I can't afford a hospital stay or any injury for that matter, Since I am the one who seems to be financially responsible for mostly everything at this time....
I even walked to the South side of the pier,(I felt like my chihuahua who walks back and forth with anxiety when I put him outside, and he wants to come in,that was me walking up and down the beach looking to see if I can get in)any way.. South of the pier is usually smaller when the North is going off. BUT it was pretty big too, and was like a washing machine and the powerful waves came in different directions and just closed out. So I decided not to go out at all.
I was gonna drive North to Seal. But the hubs was with me and he didn't have that desire to look for surfable waves that I did. He does not surf, he fishes..(now if we were talking fishing, that would be different, we would go anywhere for fish.) Next day I was informed Seal was pretty big too, So I guess I saved some gas there. It just did'nt matter where I went.
I am happy though my experienced surfing friends had a great time up and down the coast. I got a few reports from some super stoked surfers so that is good.
I am hoping tomorrow.. Sunday... will be a bit smaller, I hear it should be... because I am.. as I said getting antsy, and I think I am gonna attempt a dawn patrol before work tomorrow. Drive 70 miles round trip to get in the water by 6:30 and out by 7:30 to be home dried and dressed and at work by 10 am.. doable..right?

Sometimes good things happen at your least favorite break.

Well I got into the water on Wed. I was debating on Blackies or Bolsa. It was not the biggest day of surf, that was for sure. A friend responded she would surf with me if we hit Bolsa....She has a state pass so that covers parking.. I was in.

NOW Bolsa and I have a relationship..it is a LOVE/HATE one.. the break is really starting to grow on me now. BUT the waves no matter how small or big, just have this drop to them. I always have to re learn,so to say, how to surf Bolsa. My first couple of times ALL I did was wipe out. It got very frustrating..plus I am always worried about those pesky sting rays. But since the water is colder I like to think they went into hibernation. One less thing to worry about. PLUS Bolsa just seems so like being in the wilderness. No pier, no houses.. just beach. WHICH is really nice. I should really be embracing that. BUT I always get an insecure feeling out there. I don't know why. It is the vast openness, I guess you could say.

So anyway.. the last couple times I surfed there, I did pretty well. I always think I wont, but I do. OF course I had my first wave that day be a wipe out. My second wave I was all shaky, like I never been on a board before. I do that from time to time. Sometimes I surf like I know what I am doing, and sometimes you would swear it was my first time standing. I think I just psych myself out. BUT after I relax..and get into the groove. I do ok.

I would say the biggest wave was a random waist high. Calf and knee size were the norm. It had a good vibe and a few surfers,(more really than I thought would be there on a Wed. and a small day.)But not as crowded as other places. I met some new guys, and they were encouraging, that is always nice.

Well after my first wipe out. I did good, caught a few lefts and a few waves that closed out and really just rode the white wash to shore. Still a ride and I stayed on so I am counting it.

BUT then this wave came and my friend says right it is a right, as I am paddling. NOW I try to go left on everything. I just go left..NO it does not always work out...but I do it naturally. BUT this time I get the wave.. I start to go left... turn my board and I go right, ON PURPOSE.. I say to myself come on go right.. you can!. I don't know if you recall some posts where I try to go right and it is backside for me.. so I usually go right all right...RIGHT OFF THE BACK OF MY BOARD.. I call it the nestea plunge of surfing. HA HA! but this time I did it .. I went right I controlled it.. TOOK it all the way to shore. AND I yelled I am going right.. OMG I am doing this!! WOOT WOOT!!...while I was riding it in. SEEM like a long ride in. I had so much control. I was soooo Happy. 2 of the guys I met that day applauded. One was on the beach on a chair and the other was getting out, I pulled right up to him. THEIR encouragement made me so happy, I explained it was my first real right. MY friend outside gave me shakas and clapped too..and everyone in ear shot was looking at me. I guess everyone about a mile north or south heard me.. HAHA.. I was Happy. I get SUPER STOKED when I accomplish something. THIS year has been the best for me surfing wise. I have accomplished a lot of firsts. Man that just keeps the fire under me to do more. I always think it is a fluke when I do something..but I eventually do it again.

Well after that I was outside just sitting, talking with my friend, because really any sort of wave was few and far between. THEN the Dolphins show up. Right there. They were so close and beautiful. I swear as they were all doing there dance going south, ONE held his head up turned and looked at me. Right in the eye. It was weird but he or she starred at me. I just said hi sweetheart you are beautiful. I guess he/she decided I was not a threat and carried on. They were right at us. THAT NEVER GETS OLD, and it is so magical and one of the best part about being a surfer, is the land dwellers will never experience that amazing magical feeling.

SO NOW I feel like an accomplished surfer.. I can go left and right! The dolphins gave me some sort of approval..;-) So yep. I am getting there..not ready for any competition or anything like that..but I feel I am becoming more and more of a surfer and am moving up from kook hood! SLOWLY BUT SURELY!

Lake Blackies

As this pictures shows.. "Lake Blackies" and Dave's paddle board in the shot, just confirms it!

I have not posted since I surfed. Halloween and work and others stuff just consumed me. Last time I surfed was last Friday. Really nothing to report. The ocean looked more like a lake. However it was a warm morning and the water was so clean even though the water was cold, I went in just for the sake of getting wet. I caught one lil ride, that was it. I did however make some new friends as I stood in my wet wet suit for over an hour waiting to see if the tide change would bring anything.. BUT nope nothing. While talking to my new friends, I learned I should either get a smaller center fin, or take the two outer ones off and see how I surf then. I believe I will try that next time I get out... if I get out any time soon... I am still getting over Bronchitis and surfing in the colder water is not helping me get any better. So I figure I should try and rest a bit. AGAIN! I am so restless AND I am getting irritated with one thing or another keeping me out of the water and preventing me from surfing. But oh well...

OH and in other news. That same day.. a Sheriffs boat was was sitting by the pier for a while. I was watching it, wondering why it was there and what it was doing. I thought hmm maybe a body or possibly a shark sighting. Funny, when I came out of the water my buddy Rick, came up to me and asked if I knew why the Harbor Patrol was there? I said I had my suspicions. He confirmed it was more than likely a shark. I guess they call Harbor Patrol if the shark is big enough to cause concern. I could have paddled to the boat, it was not far from us at all. THE water that day besides being very cold was crystal clear too, and there was a LOT of bait fish swimming around. I figured if it was a shark, I am sure the bait fish is what drew it close to shore. Oh well No harm. BUT what sits in the back of my mind is Rick's words.. "Big enough to cause concern"..How big is that?

I liked this and wanted to share

A friend posted this on Facebook and she got it from another site. I just loved it and thought it would be nice to share. I think ALL us surfers can relate to the words.

Since I have not fully recovered from the Bronchitis bordering on Pneumonia, and surfed and got back into my running and did everything but fully rest...or I'm just plain ole sick again. I did not surf this last weekend. BUT I heard surf was not so great anyway so I did not miss much.

However my daughter REALLY wanted to surf this weekend... AND when My 14 year old said she wants to spend time with me.. and not just spend time with me..but dign what I LOVE!!! which is rare at this age..I got all excited too. BUT Thankfully she understood I was still not well and didn't want me to risk a possible hospital stay if I surfed with her. LOL..

So nothing new to report..Hopefully I will feel well Thursday and or Friday..my next days off..and hopefully there will be something to surf

Measuring a Wave!

So there has been a lot of discussion lately about how to measure a wave..and it is very confusing to me. SO I started using body parts.. ankle, knee, waist, chest, head. I usually do not like to surf anything much above my waist..and seem to go out when it is ankle to maybe chest high. WHEN some of those chest highs get bigger and or stronger. I will come in. I have realize too big for me. I think that as 4-5 waves. When I try to look at the face and do some fast math in my head. MY BEST wave was just over my head. I am so stoked and said it had to be a 5'. THEN my bubble was popped. BECAUSE of the whole Hawaiian style measuring. From the back of the waves. WELL 1).. you don't surf the back of the wave... and 2) When you are surfing.. who sees the back of the wave??? Does not make sense to me.

So I am gonna go with this way of measuring and stick with it.:

http://www.thesurfingsite.com/Wave-Height.html

OK I would like some feedback on this!

I still am stoked on my wave regardless.. it is and probably will always be my all time best.