Just call me Chicken....or Sane?

Picture of Blackies when we just got there,right before the tide was getting high.

I know I have not surfed in a while. It was either raining, or had just rained on my last couple of days off!
So I was so excited to see the rain did not arrive on Turkey Day, so I could surf on Friday. Seriously I am not into getting hurt or injured or pepper sprayed for a discount on some consumer item, So was all too happy to skip the Black Friday hype to surf.. and was hoping everyone else was shopping.. WRONG!
When I put the call out a few girls said they wanted to surf. I said cool I will catch up with you all on Friday morning and make a game plan!
Friday morning came and I get reports from friends about the monstrous high tide..of course when I am headed out to surf. I thought that meant the tide would be too big and waves would be swampy?

Look how big it got!

Well The tide was high, the water washed all the way up to the wall at Blackies. BUT the waves were HUGE too. I say easily average wave was 6 ft. They were also fast. I know for some or most surfers that is what they want. BUT it was too dangerous looking for me. AND crowded. I saw so many wipe outs. Boards flying up into the air when the wave closed out. I saw so many people almost get beheaded by surfers while some were paddling out, others whizzed right by their heads. Looked like rockets. I also saw surfboard after surfboard wash to shore with out a surfer attached. Talk about dangerous. One surfer also hauled in what looked to be a big piece of plywood from the surf.. OUCH that would hurt if it hit you!
Two of my friends were out there. One said after catching one wave she was wondering what she was doing out there. SHE is a talented surfer, So I knew if that is what she was thinking, I would die, just die if I attempted to paddle out. My other friend loved it out there. Just it was crowded and people were all going after the waves, Dog eat dog and everyone was out for themselves. So after a few she came in.
Watching the show from shore was crazy, My stomach was hurting with all the excitement.


Even after watching all that I was still antsy..but I knew better. I really didn't feel like dying that day, I have grandchildren I want to watch grow up, and I can't afford a hospital stay or any injury for that matter, Since I am the one who seems to be financially responsible for mostly everything at this time....
I even walked to the South side of the pier,(I felt like my chihuahua who walks back and forth with anxiety when I put him outside, and he wants to come in,that was me walking up and down the beach looking to see if I can get in)any way.. South of the pier is usually smaller when the North is going off. BUT it was pretty big too, and was like a washing machine and the powerful waves came in different directions and just closed out. So I decided not to go out at all.
I was gonna drive North to Seal. But the hubs was with me and he didn't have that desire to look for surfable waves that I did. He does not surf, he fishes..(now if we were talking fishing, that would be different, we would go anywhere for fish.) Next day I was informed Seal was pretty big too, So I guess I saved some gas there. It just did'nt matter where I went.
I am happy though my experienced surfing friends had a great time up and down the coast. I got a few reports from some super stoked surfers so that is good.
I am hoping tomorrow.. Sunday... will be a bit smaller, I hear it should be... because I am.. as I said getting antsy, and I think I am gonna attempt a dawn patrol before work tomorrow. Drive 70 miles round trip to get in the water by 6:30 and out by 7:30 to be home dried and dressed and at work by 10 am.. doable..right?

Sometimes good things happen at your least favorite break.

Well I got into the water on Wed. I was debating on Blackies or Bolsa. It was not the biggest day of surf, that was for sure. A friend responded she would surf with me if we hit Bolsa....She has a state pass so that covers parking.. I was in.

NOW Bolsa and I have a relationship..it is a LOVE/HATE one.. the break is really starting to grow on me now. BUT the waves no matter how small or big, just have this drop to them. I always have to re learn,so to say, how to surf Bolsa. My first couple of times ALL I did was wipe out. It got very frustrating..plus I am always worried about those pesky sting rays. But since the water is colder I like to think they went into hibernation. One less thing to worry about. PLUS Bolsa just seems so like being in the wilderness. No pier, no houses.. just beach. WHICH is really nice. I should really be embracing that. BUT I always get an insecure feeling out there. I don't know why. It is the vast openness, I guess you could say.

So anyway.. the last couple times I surfed there, I did pretty well. I always think I wont, but I do. OF course I had my first wave that day be a wipe out. My second wave I was all shaky, like I never been on a board before. I do that from time to time. Sometimes I surf like I know what I am doing, and sometimes you would swear it was my first time standing. I think I just psych myself out. BUT after I relax..and get into the groove. I do ok.

I would say the biggest wave was a random waist high. Calf and knee size were the norm. It had a good vibe and a few surfers,(more really than I thought would be there on a Wed. and a small day.)But not as crowded as other places. I met some new guys, and they were encouraging, that is always nice.

Well after my first wipe out. I did good, caught a few lefts and a few waves that closed out and really just rode the white wash to shore. Still a ride and I stayed on so I am counting it.

BUT then this wave came and my friend says right it is a right, as I am paddling. NOW I try to go left on everything. I just go left..NO it does not always work out...but I do it naturally. BUT this time I get the wave.. I start to go left... turn my board and I go right, ON PURPOSE.. I say to myself come on go right.. you can!. I don't know if you recall some posts where I try to go right and it is backside for me.. so I usually go right all right...RIGHT OFF THE BACK OF MY BOARD.. I call it the nestea plunge of surfing. HA HA! but this time I did it .. I went right I controlled it.. TOOK it all the way to shore. AND I yelled I am going right.. OMG I am doing this!! WOOT WOOT!!...while I was riding it in. SEEM like a long ride in. I had so much control. I was soooo Happy. 2 of the guys I met that day applauded. One was on the beach on a chair and the other was getting out, I pulled right up to him. THEIR encouragement made me so happy, I explained it was my first real right. MY friend outside gave me shakas and clapped too..and everyone in ear shot was looking at me. I guess everyone about a mile north or south heard me.. HAHA.. I was Happy. I get SUPER STOKED when I accomplish something. THIS year has been the best for me surfing wise. I have accomplished a lot of firsts. Man that just keeps the fire under me to do more. I always think it is a fluke when I do something..but I eventually do it again.

Well after that I was outside just sitting, talking with my friend, because really any sort of wave was few and far between. THEN the Dolphins show up. Right there. They were so close and beautiful. I swear as they were all doing there dance going south, ONE held his head up turned and looked at me. Right in the eye. It was weird but he or she starred at me. I just said hi sweetheart you are beautiful. I guess he/she decided I was not a threat and carried on. They were right at us. THAT NEVER GETS OLD, and it is so magical and one of the best part about being a surfer, is the land dwellers will never experience that amazing magical feeling.

SO NOW I feel like an accomplished surfer.. I can go left and right! The dolphins gave me some sort of approval..;-) So yep. I am getting there..not ready for any competition or anything like that..but I feel I am becoming more and more of a surfer and am moving up from kook hood! SLOWLY BUT SURELY!

Lake Blackies

As this pictures shows.. "Lake Blackies" and Dave's paddle board in the shot, just confirms it!

I have not posted since I surfed. Halloween and work and others stuff just consumed me. Last time I surfed was last Friday. Really nothing to report. The ocean looked more like a lake. However it was a warm morning and the water was so clean even though the water was cold, I went in just for the sake of getting wet. I caught one lil ride, that was it. I did however make some new friends as I stood in my wet wet suit for over an hour waiting to see if the tide change would bring anything.. BUT nope nothing. While talking to my new friends, I learned I should either get a smaller center fin, or take the two outer ones off and see how I surf then. I believe I will try that next time I get out... if I get out any time soon... I am still getting over Bronchitis and surfing in the colder water is not helping me get any better. So I figure I should try and rest a bit. AGAIN! I am so restless AND I am getting irritated with one thing or another keeping me out of the water and preventing me from surfing. But oh well...

OH and in other news. That same day.. a Sheriffs boat was was sitting by the pier for a while. I was watching it, wondering why it was there and what it was doing. I thought hmm maybe a body or possibly a shark sighting. Funny, when I came out of the water my buddy Rick, came up to me and asked if I knew why the Harbor Patrol was there? I said I had my suspicions. He confirmed it was more than likely a shark. I guess they call Harbor Patrol if the shark is big enough to cause concern. I could have paddled to the boat, it was not far from us at all. THE water that day besides being very cold was crystal clear too, and there was a LOT of bait fish swimming around. I figured if it was a shark, I am sure the bait fish is what drew it close to shore. Oh well No harm. BUT what sits in the back of my mind is Rick's words.. "Big enough to cause concern"..How big is that?

I liked this and wanted to share

A friend posted this on Facebook and she got it from another site. I just loved it and thought it would be nice to share. I think ALL us surfers can relate to the words.

Since I have not fully recovered from the Bronchitis bordering on Pneumonia, and surfed and got back into my running and did everything but fully rest...or I'm just plain ole sick again. I did not surf this last weekend. BUT I heard surf was not so great anyway so I did not miss much.

However my daughter REALLY wanted to surf this weekend... AND when My 14 year old said she wants to spend time with me.. and not just spend time with me..but dign what I LOVE!!! which is rare at this age..I got all excited too. BUT Thankfully she understood I was still not well and didn't want me to risk a possible hospital stay if I surfed with her. LOL..

So nothing new to report..Hopefully I will feel well Thursday and or Friday..my next days off..and hopefully there will be something to surf

Measuring a Wave!

So there has been a lot of discussion lately about how to measure a wave..and it is very confusing to me. SO I started using body parts.. ankle, knee, waist, chest, head. I usually do not like to surf anything much above my waist..and seem to go out when it is ankle to maybe chest high. WHEN some of those chest highs get bigger and or stronger. I will come in. I have realize too big for me. I think that as 4-5 waves. When I try to look at the face and do some fast math in my head. MY BEST wave was just over my head. I am so stoked and said it had to be a 5'. THEN my bubble was popped. BECAUSE of the whole Hawaiian style measuring. From the back of the waves. WELL 1).. you don't surf the back of the wave... and 2) When you are surfing.. who sees the back of the wave??? Does not make sense to me.

So I am gonna go with this way of measuring and stick with it.:

http://www.thesurfingsite.com/Wave-Height.html

OK I would like some feedback on this!

I still am stoked on my wave regardless.. it is and probably will always be my all time best.

Two views of one MAGICAL wave

Unfortunately I do not have a picture for this post. I am really bummed because I WISH I DID!!!!! But this work of Art expresses a lot of what I could not put in words about my experience.

I had to do a separate post for this wave I spoke a little about in my previous post.
I am still taking it in, absorbing what happened, and still in awe of this wave. THIS ONE WAVE. I mean this happened on Friday..and it is now Monday, and I think I have the right energy and perspective to finally put in words. I think I have finally come to the conclusion this really happened!

Last night I asked my husband to tell me what he saw on the beach when I caught this wave. Which I am going over and over in my head about. I still can't believe it. So after hearing my husbands version I was REALLY!!! It really did happen!! It was not a dream, it was not exaggerated in my mind...SO I want to do a post here as told by me and my husband view as it was happening.

So I am outside and a huge swell is coming in, All the other surfers paddle towards it, I heard someone say WHOA!! My thoughts were wow where did this come from? I was just about to follow the pack, when I don't know where I got the cajones? I just heard the words of my 19 year old surfer friend here where I work go through my mind, "Don't be afraid of the big waves" "Go for it!"

Me: I spun my board around and paddled for the wave.. thinking to my self.. Oh this is gonna hurt..your gonna die.. what are you doing?

Hubs: Oh look She is the only one paddling for that wave.(husband is not a surfer but a fishing boat captain. SO this gets good)

Me: oh crap I am lifting up too high.. too high. Oh shit!

Husband: You were on the white water top of the wave.. then you stood up Me: you mean the lip, I popped up at the lip?..(so what was going through my mind as I am on this part of the wave... was as said above, TOO high oh shit oh shit I am gonna eat it! OK just pop up..I did.. holy cow I am up!! Oh this isn't gonna last.. that is a long fall in front of me. Michelle last time you did this you ate shit..you are stupid, you are not ready for this.)

Hubs: then you fell to the front of the wave while standing on the board.. Me: I dropped onto the face of the wave,while still standing? (I remember dropping and my stomach dropped and all I could think is I am still standing!!)

Me: how big was the wave? Where was the wave on my body? waist, chest? Hubs: um it was above your head when you were at the bottom. ME: HOLEY SHIT A HEAD HIGH WAVE ?! I am 5'7" and it was at my head. so what a 5' wave? Hubs: yeah probably...(So seriously I was not thinking at this point how big the wave was... I was just trying to stay on my board..and I think my soul left my body..because I could not believe what was happening.. All that kept going through my head was I am still on, I am still on!!but I knew this was the biggest wave I have ever caught and rode!

Hubs: you were on for a long time and rode it all the way to the shore..you were going right. ME: I was going left he was facing me.. and I did ride it all the way to shore.. I think I was again having an out of body experience. I remember stepping of my board in ankle deep water, I was in a daze. I wish I knew what my expression was, I either had a smile ear to ear or I had a complete look of shock on my face. I remember looking to see if my husband saw it. I saw his red shirt and knew he was still there. Then I looked around expecting people to be all excited..BUT really I didn't know anyone around me. It was in a crazy moment. I grabbed my board and went out and asked Artie if she saw what happened? I really wanted to know how big that wave was..but she only knew I caught a wave.. she didn't see much else. I was thinking maybe it really was not that big of a deal..but I am so glad my husband was there and his description confirmed my feelings.

I am so Happy my husband saw that! I have a witness. I wish I had a picture or better yet video.. I really wish I could see the look on my face.

See...I think a wave that is waist high is big for me. I am so happy surfing anything and cruising on my board slowly in ankle to knee to waist high. THAT is my fav thing to do. That is MY surfing..

BUT now.. I have experienced this! Mamma likes and I want more please!!!

MY ME DAY!! What a Friday it was!!!!!

A few of the girls getting ready to head out here.

SO I just posted about my Thursday experience...and Now want to post about Friday.
Our club had planned a sunset SUP and then Happy Hour for this day. SO I planned to make the day out of it, I had the day off woot woot, and made it a ME DAY!....
..AND I had the BEST ME DAY!

My husbands boat did not go out in the morning, He text ed me to see where I would be surfing, so he got to the break before me & came to watch. I am so glad he did. HE FINALLY saw me catch some waves..not just white wash.. so he was impressed..and a bit proud of me. =)...

So the idiot from the day before did not discourage me. I came back to Blackies the next day at the same time. Well maybe a little bit earlier but not by much. Surf was not as big, but I say it was smoother than the day before. It was mostly knee to waist high, with an occasional chest to head high random wave or two.(I am using body parts to describe the waves, it is easier.., because, sometimes what I think is a 4' wave, is really a 3' or less..I have no sense of measurement when it comes to waves haha)

THE vibe in the water was so much different than the day before. A lot nicer group of people were out there and we had a blast. Yes it was still crowded..always is! "Note to self..if I surf alone.. surf next to female paddle boarder named Mona, She is out there all the time and everyone seems to know her and THEY all are nice." She calls waves for us and tells us to get ready and she is just a positive ray of sunshine out there..and just because she is on a paddle board, she does not dominate the surf. I liked her! My friend Artie met me there, I was so Happy she came! I don't get to surf with her as much and I love surfing with her. Then our friend Kori showed up later too. BUT even if they were not there. Again a much nicer group. The vibe was so positive..you just didn't want to get out of the water. Speaking of h2o..water temp seemed a little cooler, but I again wore my shorty, air temp for sure was, a few degrees cooler, BUT the sun was still shining.


My first wave I pearl... oh well. Whatever. This time I stayed outside the whole time, (until the waves were only breaking inside, then I moved there.) My second wave I pop up and slip right off. OOPS, I need some more wax, I run my hand across the board and it was so slippery. I forgot to check before I went out. I was just too excited and anxious to go out and surf. HA! So I came in. My husband asked if I was all right? He thought the board hit my head. I said no, I slid right of my board during pop up and I totally need to wax this.. so he watch my board as I ran to the Tahoe and got a bit of wax. DID the deed and ran back out to surf.

Went after another wave and weeeeee left all the way home. I was so happy.. it was a small wave, but it was a wave...and it was fun.
THEN I caught a few more... BUT then.. I went after a rather big wave, I don't know how big it was, BUT I usually don't go after these, Everyone else paddled towards it, no one went after it. Looked like it was gonna be big, coming in from the outside. WAY outside, and I decided I am gonna go for it. Words of advice from my 19 year old surf buddy I work with, went through my head. DON'T BE AFRAID OF BIGGER WAVES! Go for it! IT was at least 4' maybe bigger??? I catch it, and think for a brief moment I am gonna wipe out. I pop up, as I am rising up..and I STAY UP!.. it lifts me, it drops me and I rode that all the way to the shore. My heart was thumping I was so excited. I have to say I think that was the best REAL wave of my life. However I expected everyone to be as excited as me..but I guess I just looked like a surfer. I scan the shore for my husband I see his red shirt, so I know he saw it. I paddle back out to Artie, but she kind of missed it. She knew I caught a wave, but didn't see how big it was. OK from that point on I was invincible. I didn't catch anything else like that the rest of the day. But I did get a few more fun rides.
I was excited to see Kori joined us too.. She paddled up to us..but I was almost ready to get out. Her first wave was a long right.. She said she needed that.It was funny I saw her go for the wave and didn't know she caught it then I saw her riding all the way to the shore what seemed like forever. I had to go in.. I surfed for 2 hours. I would have stayed even longer, I was on a surfing high..but when your paddling for a wave and you just don't have that umph anymore and your arms feel like rubber, It is time to go in. My husband ended up leaving while I was out there... BUT sent me a text message saying he saw me and good job. =) YOU would think my day could not get better. And of course that wave was the highlight of my day. I wish I could see what I looked like from shore. It may not be as great as it is in my mind. HA! But I don't care.

So for lunch I hang out down the Peninsula at our fav bar. Just to hang with Holly, the bartender, I only had one Bloody Mary, because we still have SUP at 4:30 and Happy Hour with my girls. BUT I know a lot of peeps at this bar and it is good just to see them and give everyone a hug. These are some good people and I love to see them from time to time. They are not the ones who stay and close down the bar, these are the peeps who hang for social time. James bought me some chili cheese fries for lunch( THANK YOU JAMES..they were yummy) and Holly kept me well hydrated with water that was never empty. As we were sitting chatting, the weather just started changing, got cold, breezy, and the fog rolled in. I thought Paddle boarding may be out of the question, and I didn't bring anything very warm. Sent a text out and...it was still on.

We paddle-boarded in Huntington Harbor a good group of I think 15? Including Artie and Kori from earlier.. A whole gang of Wahine Kai taking over the harbor on paddle boards. It was fun and we did that for an hour. It was not as windy, and in the harbor it was more like a mist than fog. IT was actually kind of cool to paddle board through it.

Afterwards we all headed to Captain Jacks! We took up almost the whole lounge area, I had 2 coronas and a very tasty seafood Quesadilla. We all chatted and caught up. A few girls who did not paddle board joined us for girl time. A good time was had by all. I love these girls.. not all showed up and they were very well missed too. It was now almost 9 PM.. my day started I left my house at 6:45 AM. So needless to say I was pooped and it was time for me to head home....Great time all day with Great People...
...NOW THAT IS WHAT I CALL A ME DAY!!!!