TIS THE SEASON

Well I guess I should post something.
I did take Tallulah out last week. Yeah the swell was big..but I stayed really close to the pier and the kiddie waves.. haha.. Although they were big enough for me. Blackies was soooooo crowded.. I caught 3 waves.. one I rode in crouched..learning my board and wet suit. Second was a lot to be desired.. just trying to balance...no standing..but I was trying.. and the third.. I rode in like a boogie board.. in the white wash.. that was still fun!!!!
I think my board is fine.... I just need to get use to her.. a lot different than the foamy...
My wet suit.. well I think I have good news and bad news.. It was too big.. so the good news is I lost weight =).. however I still felt like a contortionist trying to get into the contraption. It felt tight to me.. but water somehow got into my arms.. so when I was paddling it felt like I had weights on my arms.. It really was a lot of work to paddle..not that I can paddle with grace as it was..but this made it a lot harder.. I really think I would have caught more waves if my arms did not feel like lead sinkers. LOL But hey.. that made it even more of a workout!
AND.. I HAD FUN!!! Came to the conclusion that is all that matters.
I met a few guys out there.. all so nice.. I am doing a lot less kook type things.. so I think I am looking more and more like a surfer. hehe So people actually speak to me and talk about the surf.. I never act like I understand everything they are saying, but I smile a lot and go home and look it up or ask one of my surfing friends later.
The one Kook thing I did, was set my board up against my truck instead of laying her on the ground..However that made me a new friend! I am a believer everything happens for a reason. OK so I really knew not to do this..but I didn't want to get Tallulah dirty. haha!
Seriously I just cant wait to get back out there.. I know with perseverance.. trial and error and lots of practicing.. I am going to get this. I feel more and more confident each time.. I do know if I lived closer to the beach.. or didn't have a job.. I would be out there a lot more..and I would be a lot better by now.
Any way..Surfing has become the one thing I dream about the most and just cant get enough of. IT has somehow taken over me.. It makes everything I do revolve around it.. exercise, eating, my whole way of thinking has changed..
I am very glad to have found this sport....or as I am beginning to think.. this sport found me.
Merry Christmas everyone! Hope it is a wet and wild one!

READY FOR THE WINTER

ITRODUCING TALLULAH!!!!

Say Hello to my first "real"board.. got a deal on Craigslist.. she is brand new! Now that I have had friends look at her and the guy I bought her from. All say the little flaw on her not a big deal.

I am so Happy my boards Ding is just cosmetic.. hooray. So I have my 9' board. And a new wetsuit.

Now I just need to try them out! I really did not think I would be surfing this winter.. just wanted to try it "surfing", thought I would do it through summer and be a seasonal recreational type surfer.. but you know.. I really love it in the water. Even if I am just paddling around out there. I am very happy with ankle biter waves.. I am getting better every time I go out there.. so winter a great time to practice..and get use to the thicker wetsuit and new board.. By spring.. I should be a lot more talented and comfortable with Tallulah, and a spring suit!

Hope Santa puts some surf wax in my stocking this year.. =-)

NEW BOARD

So I bought my first real board today.. I named her Tallullah!.. She is beautiful. I love her..
BUT... after I got home I found a ding in the fiberglass. I am so bummed!!!!!! I have a call into the guy I bought it from. I hope he comes through for me!!!! I can't believe I missed it???? I really thought I looked at her pretty thorough. It has a flower design and the ding is in the design. It's very well camoflouged.
So wish me luck.. I will post a pix.. once I find out if he will fix her!
Keep your fingers crossed for me!!!! I feel like such a kook!

It has been a while

So .. I guess I have not blogged in a bit. But life has been so busy. I did surf on Thanksgiving.. and it was so nice, not much of a swell barely any waves..but I caught and rode one in..and I was happy about that..
I was loving just being out in the water and watching and listening to what was going on around me.
I could not believe at 7:30 in the morning how packed Blackies was. It was so crowded in the parking lot and in the break.
But I found a spot close to the pier, where it was not crowded and met some really nice people.
So I was happy about that. I just liked being out, in my spring suit non the less. I was enjoying the Ocean and everything. I was happy just being out there, even though I only caught one wave. =-).. Hey I never set out to shred it up or do anything crazy.. I am happy to paddle out and hang out as long as I enjoy myself and have fun! To me that is all that matters!

NO TIME FOR POSTING

Just FYI.. I am in the middle of my son and his family's stay with us. I am busy enjoying my Granddaughter every minute I can. So I have not been surfing..and I have not been blogging. I have been working, planning and throwing a Welcome home get together for my son. Just enjoying all of them before they have to leave.
I know where my priorities are...and Family comes first. =-)

Still here

Yes I am still here.. just been EXTREMELY BUSY.. the soldier will be home in a few, and I am getting my house in order, .. my husband is working on a fishing boat. He is rarely home, so I have been doing most of this by myself, and with the help of my sons, when I can pull them away from their busy lives....so between that and so much more, I have been a bit busy and my time is the most precious thing..and there is just not enough hours in the day lately.. as I am typing this I need to get ready for work. LOL.. but I felt obligated to post something.

Since my last post I did get out one time.. Because I was short on time and had an appointment. I was only able to get in the water for an hour.. I did not catch a wave..but I still loved being out there. I was determined to make some time to surf. So I did..even if it was short.
I had a few people give me pointers..which I appreciate.. I love friendly surfers.. I have to admit... I don't think anyone has been unfriendly yet. If they have.. i just have not noticed.

I really want to get out this weekend..but I just have so much to still do, and since my husband has very limited days or should I say day off.. I have to make time for him too.

So I will do my best to keep all posted..and I will do my best to get out there a few more times before it gets cold.

Gotta run....will be late for work if I don't....till next post!

Still Sick??

Hi All,
I just have to start by saying I woke up to good news.. my son is back in the USA!! His deployment is over and as he is not home yet, he is in the States, and I couldn't be happier.!

So...
I didn't surf last week, I was so sick! Started Sunday after the Surfboards in the Sand event. I woke up with a sore throat.. lasted 3 days. Then turned into a head cold and I couldn't breathe.
So I couldn't surf last weekend, and the surf club I joined was having a end of summer party at San O.. I really wanted to go..but a week later, I still was not feeling good.

So another week goes by, and I feel a little worn, thought the congestion was gone. Just had the clearing of the throat symptom. No fever ever, I thought I was better really during this week. Did a lot of things around the house. Getting ready for my sons homecoming here, next month!.Because I just cant sit still and rest.

So I get all excited, Was going surfing Friday at Bolsa Chica for the first time.. was happy, got to fit my surfboard in the Jetta. New Surf, and I was going with the Pres of the new surf club...
So we get to the beach....looks perfect. ...got a lot of pointers from Cathy in the car.. Was excited to get out there.
She asked me to show her my pop up on the beach before we get out... I show her, she says it looks good... made me happy I was practicing.. however again. MY pop up on the stable sand, living room wherever there is not an ocean moving under you... is completely different when I actually catch a wave.. But at least I know what I am suppose to do.

Well this was my 10th time out.. totally still a kook..but I was getting more comfortable with the whole thing.. can paddle out.. although this was a longer paddle than Blackies. ( Also, since had been two weeks since I went out last, and I think my body was a bit sore from being sick, paddling was a lot more work this time.) Understood the waves more.. the break was not as bad to get past. I could sit on my board without wobbling waiting for a wave. Learned how to spin my board around to catch a wave at last minute.. NICE.. Every time I go I learn something new and feel a lot more confident.

However.....

I started feeling woozy and dizzy, and the smell of the salt water was making me nausea.. ( first off two of the things I love about surfing.. don't laugh... is 1. the smell of the ocean and salt water, very refreshing... 2. surf wax.. Is intoxicating...almost want to wear it as a perfume.. mmmmm surf wax) Even though I only waxed a board once.. I have it in my surf bag, and just smell it from time to time..yum.

I was trying to figure out what was going on. I was not even out there 5 minutes. I just got there. I could not be exhausted from paddling out. So I think OK...mind over matter, I will just ignore this and it will go away.. I try to catch a few waves, missed them. I don't know if it is because it was a new wave, or I just had no strength to paddle. I was feeling sea sick on my board. I kept trying to shake it off.. Caught one wave.. inside..but still rode it and tried to get up.. was really dizzy, but still rode it to shore , kinda on my knees, kinda crouched.

I went back out and was determined to keep at this.. but I just kept feeling woozy,, I sat outside paddled around a bit....watched the other surfers..and thought.. I feel really weak and dizzy, I have not even been out here long.. sooooo i did the dreaded paddle of shame.. i guess it is called when you don't ride a wave in... back to shore, and sat down on the beach and watched everyone else. Cathy totally rocked, and so did Kim, I think her name was. (she met us there).. but I was not feeling good, so I couldn't really concentrate on much.

tried to drink some water,,,,,didn't make me feel good.

Came home, and seriously fell asleep on the couch..and I woke up ate a piece of pizza, and went back to bed at 5:30'sh in the evening.. I just was not feeling good.

Woke up this morning coughing/and a bit congested.. Really?????

I am so over this! Not surfing.. the cold...how dare it interrupt with my surfing!!!