Still Sick??

Hi All,
I just have to start by saying I woke up to good news.. my son is back in the USA!! His deployment is over and as he is not home yet, he is in the States, and I couldn't be happier.!

So...
I didn't surf last week, I was so sick! Started Sunday after the Surfboards in the Sand event. I woke up with a sore throat.. lasted 3 days. Then turned into a head cold and I couldn't breathe.
So I couldn't surf last weekend, and the surf club I joined was having a end of summer party at San O.. I really wanted to go..but a week later, I still was not feeling good.

So another week goes by, and I feel a little worn, thought the congestion was gone. Just had the clearing of the throat symptom. No fever ever, I thought I was better really during this week. Did a lot of things around the house. Getting ready for my sons homecoming here, next month!.Because I just cant sit still and rest.

So I get all excited, Was going surfing Friday at Bolsa Chica for the first time.. was happy, got to fit my surfboard in the Jetta. New Surf, and I was going with the Pres of the new surf club...
So we get to the beach....looks perfect. ...got a lot of pointers from Cathy in the car.. Was excited to get out there.
She asked me to show her my pop up on the beach before we get out... I show her, she says it looks good... made me happy I was practicing.. however again. MY pop up on the stable sand, living room wherever there is not an ocean moving under you... is completely different when I actually catch a wave.. But at least I know what I am suppose to do.

Well this was my 10th time out.. totally still a kook..but I was getting more comfortable with the whole thing.. can paddle out.. although this was a longer paddle than Blackies. ( Also, since had been two weeks since I went out last, and I think my body was a bit sore from being sick, paddling was a lot more work this time.) Understood the waves more.. the break was not as bad to get past. I could sit on my board without wobbling waiting for a wave. Learned how to spin my board around to catch a wave at last minute.. NICE.. Every time I go I learn something new and feel a lot more confident.

However.....

I started feeling woozy and dizzy, and the smell of the salt water was making me nausea.. ( first off two of the things I love about surfing.. don't laugh... is 1. the smell of the ocean and salt water, very refreshing... 2. surf wax.. Is intoxicating...almost want to wear it as a perfume.. mmmmm surf wax) Even though I only waxed a board once.. I have it in my surf bag, and just smell it from time to time..yum.

I was trying to figure out what was going on. I was not even out there 5 minutes. I just got there. I could not be exhausted from paddling out. So I think OK...mind over matter, I will just ignore this and it will go away.. I try to catch a few waves, missed them. I don't know if it is because it was a new wave, or I just had no strength to paddle. I was feeling sea sick on my board. I kept trying to shake it off.. Caught one wave.. inside..but still rode it and tried to get up.. was really dizzy, but still rode it to shore , kinda on my knees, kinda crouched.

I went back out and was determined to keep at this.. but I just kept feeling woozy,, I sat outside paddled around a bit....watched the other surfers..and thought.. I feel really weak and dizzy, I have not even been out here long.. sooooo i did the dreaded paddle of shame.. i guess it is called when you don't ride a wave in... back to shore, and sat down on the beach and watched everyone else. Cathy totally rocked, and so did Kim, I think her name was. (she met us there).. but I was not feeling good, so I couldn't really concentrate on much.

tried to drink some water,,,,,didn't make me feel good.

Came home, and seriously fell asleep on the couch..and I woke up ate a piece of pizza, and went back to bed at 5:30'sh in the evening.. I just was not feeling good.

Woke up this morning coughing/and a bit congested.. Really?????

I am so over this! Not surfing.. the cold...how dare it interrupt with my surfing!!!

Surfboards in the Sand Event

Yesterday I went to my first surfing event. Surfboards in the Sand. It was a fundraising event for the surfrider foundation, sponsored by Pete Townsend(The Surfer, not musician). Anyone else go to this? I would like to hear your take on the day!

I went with the ladies surfing club I am going to join. What a great group of girls!!!!

Well the event was all about taking a history making photo of about 1000 or so surfers. I am not 100% sure where the photo will be published.

So I was surrounded by so many different type of surfers and surfboards, it was surreal..I am use to seeing the surfers I meet in the water, or here online. ha...Not out of the water, sweating on the beach!
Very interesting, it was hot, and we had 4 poses to do, and had to keep moving our club and our boards, for different shots. The best was the one they took from a helicopter. (so I took a pix of them taking a pix.) That is what this picture is.

Well I had a fun time, they had some booths and entertainment as well. I just stayed to take the picture and meet the ladies of Wahine Kai. We got a nice t-shirt, subscription to a surf magazine, and a rubber souvenir wrist band..not to mention got to be in a picture that will make history.. but the best part was.. the fact my fee to do all this goes to a good cause.. a donation to help keep our beaches and shoreline liter free.... so remember when you leave the beach.. don't just pick up your trash.. but have everyone who is with you pick up at least 3 or more pieces each..

KEEP OUR BEACHES CLEAN...It benefit's everyone!

Some Firsts

Well....Friday I accomplished a lot.

So my husband and I set out early so I could take my still nameless new board for a ride or two. I decided lets head to Blackies since I hear there was a bit of a swell and I am still not experienced enough to attempt anything beyond what maybe 2' waves. I was comfortable with Blackies....it is my security blanket.

We get to the parking lot of the pier and it was already pretty packed. There were lots of surfers out there. Not to mention OMG those were big waves for me.. looked over 3'.. I was very nervous and was convinced I was backing out of this today.

I always text my friend and of course mentor Natalie, and tell her when I surf and where. So I tell her. Then my next text was. "aaaaah....waves at blackies look a bit scary...=(...I think Ill pass....and a lot of people..bummer". Well 6 minutes later I get a call from Natalie, She just surfed HB..and said she would come out and surf with me at Blackies, I tell her did you read what I just text you.. the waves are to big for me, I am not comfortable going out. She said no, the waves are not to big,, I will go out with you, be there in a minute. I get a call she is in the parking lot, and says yeah the waves are a bit big for you...I was all.. I told you..She responds with I am taking you out any way.......my first thought is great she is going to get me killed. Either by taking on too big of a wave, or pissing off one of the surfers who were out there, or just getting run over by someone...haha

Well we get out..and it was not so bad.. tide was high..and, the waves were intimidating...but not as bad as I thought..plus she knew a few people out there, who were very nice.

Natalie takes me out past the break...a first for me.. did I mention... I really just play and have been learning in the white wash? Well that all changed yesterday. My first, first.

I was very worried about all the people out there...and I was worried about catching and getting on a bigger wave than I was use to. So of course I am already nervous, but I am also in deeper water.. I even saw bigger fish, and was praying nothing bigger was there looking for those fish. haha.

Well I have to tell you I caught four waves. Oh and the face of the wave, another first. You have a lot more time to figure out what you are going to do. One I kneed in. One I tried to stand and fell. One I actually worked my way to crouching, and stood, of course my footing was wrong, more of a lounge, but I rode that wave all the way in. I was very happy with that.. I think Natalie was too. I mean it was not graceful by any means...and the only way I can describe it was like a real old lady trying to get up. So yet again another first. I rode a wave in and I stood 3/4 of the ways through!

I also learned how to turtle, I have to tell you is a bit scary and the first time I attempted it I twirled around with the crashing wave and swallowed a lot of water. I also was not sure when I was trying to surface.. if I was swimming up or down. But I made it. I went to the beach to take a break, and I really felt like I was going to puke.. combination of getting tired, worn, and the swallowing of water.. I really don't know why I don't just shut my mouth when I go under. HAHA..

Well I went out again with Natalie who came to see if I was ok.. she said I had at least 2 more waves in me, and she would show me how to turtle properly. It is not easy to do with a foam board either.. I also hit myself in the head.. and was happy it is only a foam board.

Now my other first is I was out there for over 2 hours.. I never have been out that long before.. I never have paddled so much before either.. so I was getting exhausted. My arms were feeling like they were barely attached to me and were becoming like string.. honestly..they along with my shoulders and neck are still very sore.

So after my turtleling lesson.. I paddled out pass the break with Natalie.. I was so tired I am sure I looked like a wounded, sad excuse of a surfer.. and if there was something bigger like a shark chasing those fish.. I am sure i would've been the surfer "easy pickings" it would go for.

Well I make it out there with Natalie, she said OK one more wave and were done. I told her I felt so sick and I was going to throw up and I was exhausted.. could I just go in. We had to wait for a wave.. which took what seem like forever to come..so finally one comes in and the last wave, Natalie pushed me into.. I paddled with my arms that were so ready to fall off, I caught the wave and seriously laid on my board and rode it in. I was too delirious to even think about popping up. I got beached and was soooo happy it was over.

Now don't get me wrong.. I felt like shit at the end of it.. and I did for probably 1/2 of the day.. and I am still sore.....

But...I accomplish the most I ever did, and learned a lot more...and actually rode in a wave and stood. Was my best day ever!

I hope this all makes sense it is way past my bedtime as I write this, I have so much to say..and I am exhausted. I got up early to go to a surf event at HB today. Which I will post about tomorrow.

G nite all and to all a G nite!

Me and my new board

Well I did it.. I got a used Costco board.. it was a great deal. It is something. I'm starting out...as I keep saying, so.. whatever.

However, it is smaller than I am use to at 8' so when I first caught a wave. I ate it bad.. pearled right to the sandy beach floor.. YUCK.. and then I did it again. I swallowed more salt water and choked on more sand than I felt fair. I had to get out and recover..so sad I was sooooo excited about getting out there on my own board.

Well I kept at it..this surf session was basically getting use to the board. Finding my sweet spot.. I caught waves. Kneed it in, and rode it like a boogie board....

But forget popping up.. OH I did try, but I can't stay up... I felt the board catch the wave, and then I pull my chest up. (so not to go forward and down into the sand).. then I get to my feet, and don't get all the way up..and off my feet I go with some acrobatic freestyle falling, haha. I only really got up one time where I am happy about it my whole 8 times of surfing.

Well I guess patience and persistence is the key. I totally pop up when I am practicing on carpet.. but when the board is moving in the water, getting up and getting balanced... wow... not easy!

So my Hubby, who decided to surf fish, while I surfed.. took a pix of me and my new board. I know it is a bad pix.. but he is so impatient, I was lucky to get this shot!

Well that was my surf experience on my first board.

Keeping my fingers crossed!

Looks like I may be getting a board. =-).. It is a foam board.. but hey it will be mine... It is a killer deal... I am only beginning.. what more could a kook ask for?
I will keep you posted..I can't wait to hit the beach this weekend. I am seriously having withdrawals..I am even practicing my pop up on the living room floor, pretending the carpet is waves of some sort... The Imagination.. a wonderful thing.

Lets all keep our fingers crossed I get the board.

Ho Hum

Well I did not surf this past weekend. But I did go to the beach, I got to my surfing spot at 8:30 It was already packed....The rental place did not open till 9 AM.. I think they were about ready to black ball the beach by 9 AM it was so crowded. So, I ended up hanging out with a few friends. One friend and I took our daughters to a water park.. OK so she lives at the beach, I was parked and packed for the beach, yet we drive a few miles down the rode to a place that had simulated waves ...I am still questioning that myself. LOL...

Since this weekend is a holiday weekend. I know the Beach is going to be crazy packed. I don't think I will be heading out there.
So I will probably be going 2 weeks with out surfing..Phooey!

I did get a book on surfing, It is quite interesting... to help me out a little. "The girls guide to surfing." They didn't have anything like the "Grandma's Guide to surfing".. or "Grandma's gone crazy and started surfing"... HAHA... Even though I am not going to be out there. I will be reading about it, and still learning. But who knows I may get a hair up my butt....and brave the crowds and catch a wave or two.

I also may go shopping for a board.. or at least see what is out there.

Well this was the first week back to school also.. So I am not sure if there are any school projects that need to be addressed this weekend either. We will see.... come what may!

Sorry for the not so exciting post. But I felt i needed to post something.. I said I would do this everyday.. But I am trying to stay true to every week!

Well... cowabunga dudes and dudettes. See ya in the surf!

Surfboard

Well I was planning on hitting the beach today.. it is my typical Friday routine almost. But my 12 year old talked me into taking her and her sister Ice skating.. we are contemplating that thought now. Since it is going to get very hot were I live, about 107 today.. oh but yet cooler than yesterday when it reached 109.

I dream of being able to live by the beach one day.. and just be able to grab my board whenever I want and hit the ocean....aaaaaahhhh one day.

Any way.. I have decided I have spent enough money renting a board. I think I am pretty much addicted to this thing called surfing. SOOOOO I am looking into (for a beginner) buying a 9' board. I was thinking of getting one of those so called Costco foam boards..but when you research them....they seem to be pretty much hated by the surfing community for a number of reasons.. Don't want to list them all...but basically, moral, safety, and environmental reasons.
So since I am just entering into this community of surfers...last thing I want to do is piss anyone off.

So I have been looking on line at used and new long boards.. range from $200 on e-bay..into the $800's.. wow.. I think I am looking for something a bit more in the $200 range for my starter board.. But it gets soooo confusing. Fun board for a beginner, long board's of all different makes. I thought a fun board was a long board. I am at awe at how many styles and sizes of boards there really are.. It is really quite interesting.

Anyway... if anyone locally.. in the Orange County, Ca area.. has any leads on a decent used board for a beginner 40 something old Grandma.. I would love to know about it. I would also appreciate any advice on buying a used board. What to look for, etc. etc.. I will also need a type of surf rack for a Jetta.. since my hubby does not like me taking the Tahoe all the time.
My budget is a bit tight...So I don't know how much of a reality this will be...... However as Natalie pointed out.. I probably could've bought a board with how much I am spending on renting one almost every week.

So that is my cry out to the surfer community... help and guidance please!

I am planning on getting out in the ocean sometime this weekend.. Maybe Sunday morning. I will see.. I know I have to get out there.. I just cant stand not being in the ocean and trying..it is all I want to do.. I don't know why..but I guess there are worse things I could be addicted too.

In other non related surfing news.. I just received an E-mail from my son in Iraq.. who is packing to come home....Not only is he returning to the states from his deployment.. he is coming home, here to Cali ..In November..he sent me his flight itinerary.. he will be here with my daughter in law and my Grand baby... I am the happiest surfing grandma around. I just had to share..because I am soooo excited.

Any how.. I will update on my status if I get out this weekend.. but if anyone can respond to this blog with much needed advice.. I would be so grateful..